Along the east side of the Waterpocket Fold in Capitol Reef National Park we find slot canyons. Many slot canyons. Some have names, some have established trails, some involve long hikes. Many others are waiting to be discovered. Today we are going to Headquarters Canyon, said to be one of the best slot canyons on the Fold. It is about 35 miles down Notom-Bullfrog Road, but the drive is half the adventure! Let’s go . . .
Really? Notom-Bullfrog Road? Where did that name come from? Glad you asked.
Notom was a small hamlet established in 1883, developed in 1886, but today is considered a ghost town. Thanks to Wayne County, Utah, for this information:
Where does Bullfrog come in? Certainly not much water here. We are in the desert!
If you continue down the road about 65 miles, although it changes names along the way, you come to Bullfrog, Utah. Although there are no bullfrogs here, they are an invasive species in much of Utah endangering native wildlife because they eat anything they can fit in their mouth including other frogs, reptiles, fish, birds, and bats. The Utah DNR (Department of Natural Resources) are encouraging people to hunt them, no license required. Besides they apparently make a great meal. The Utah Division of Wildlife Resources even offer tips on both catching and cooking the critters.
So where did the name Bullfrog come from? Bullfrog is on the shore of Lake Powell in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. On the Park Service’s Frequently Asked Questions web page they share about the name.
Bullfrog Maria is one of four marinas along Lake Powell. If you are a boating enthusiast this may be a bucket-list destination! I’m not, and we’re going to see a slot canyon.
There seem to be many possible canyon openings along the way.
Here we are but can’t make out an opening from the trailhead. The hike is about a 2.5 miles round trip but the tricky part is parking. There is parking for three–as in 3–cars! Many people don’t venture down dirt roads meaning few people exploring these trails. Dirt roads can offer great adventures and views, but having the right vehicle, right tires, and being extremely attentive to weather are vital to successfully venturing on dirt roads. Personally, I love dirt roads. Always something wonderful and different to see.
The trail looks easy, but time will tell. Be sure to stay on the trail and here’s the reason. See the rather hard and lumpy-looking soil surface on either side of the trail? This is biological soil crust, a living organism that supports other plant life in the desert. It is not always black, but critical to minimize erosion whether from rain or wind, and it is alive!
Hmmmm . . . maybe not as easy as it first appeared. I highlighted the trail down and up this seven+/- foot drop. Visiting Utah I often think of what it must have been like for settlers traveling in wagon trains not only crossing the Rocky Mountains, but then coming across such a deep cut in the desert. Do you think your family would have embarked on such a journey back in the day?
There’s the opening, but the trail is taking us down and around. Straight ahead is a great view, but steep drops and cliff edges make it dangerous hiking.
Look at that beautiful red swirls of sandstone. The different color rock is all about iron. The intensity or lack of iron in the rock during its creation results in the various colors. Of course that’s overly simplified, but iron is the key.
Making our way around the rocks to continue down the trail is this small oasis. Don’t see any water, but there may be a small spring we cannot see. The plants look so healthy. The rock cutout does help protect them from strong winds and may offer shade later in the day.
See the bio crust at bottom left?
A right turn into the wash. Thankfully there’s an arrow-shaped sign. Sure am glad there is no rain in the forecast. Flash floods are always possible in such washes not to mention canyons.
Good grief, watch your step!
Sandstone in Capitol Reef is said to be home to many fossils. Might this be one of a leaf?
Ah, the red wall but a bit gnarly getting around the clutter.
Looks like we are almost there!
Here we go.
Erosion along the canyon wall.
Looks like it widens up ahead.
Hmmm . . . Looks like we can get around the left side of that massive rock. If not, this is what they call scrambling.
Scrambling is a technique between hill hiking and rock climbing. Of course there are various levels of scrambling, but it basically requires using both feet and one or both hands to maneuver over rock. It takes no special training or gear but it does require caution. Many hikes in Utah require some level of scrambling. Well, let’s see if we can get around the rock instead 😉 .
We can get around the rock, but there is so much “clutter” going forward—and scrambling. The Canyon itself is not much longer and since safety comes first think we’ll skip this part of the trail.
Oh, did I mention? This last part of the trail before we turned around required walking sideways to fit through. Now this is a slot canyon!
Watch your head!
The canyon was so nice and cool, but now we head out into the heat. It is nearly 70 degrees which isn’t really hot, but with all the white sand and rock it sure feels hotter! Luckily, and unexpectedly, there is a nice breeze.
The view north as we get closer to the trailhead.
Wow, the parking lot is full! OK, lame comment. Those are not small vehicles dead center by the large bush, but they sure look small compared to the landscape.
What a great slot canyon hike! I’ve only been in a few narrow canyons, but none like this. What do you think? Is a slot canyon hike in your future? Be sure to share if so.
Until next time my friend . . .
Awesome in a way this word should be used 🙂 !!
Thanks so much Deb! It really was special and especially liked it because the temp dropped a lot walking in such a “deep” place. Hope all is well!!