Here we are at the trailhead for Hickman Bridge at 7am. What a beautiful morning as we head out along the Fremont River which runs through the middle of Capitol Reef National Park. The river allowed settlers to live in Fruita, just down the road, establishing orchards galore. Right now the apricot trees are in bloom. Fruita’s history, originally called Junction, is fascinating. It takes courage to not only live, but raise a family, in such a harsh environment without all our technological advances–like electric and sewers 😉 .
Well here we go! Up 400 feet in just under a mile to see the 133 ft (40 m) long and 125 ft (37 m) high natural bridge.
This hike’s start is rather “civilized” thanks to the hard work of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the early 1940s.
Around the bend Capitol Dome is prominent. This rounded Navajo Sandstone dome reminded early explorers and settlers of the shape of many capitol buildings and contributed to the name of Capitol Reef as we talked of before.
Rock trails present directional problems, like where the heck is the trail, but not right here with stairs ahead.
We have steep switchbacks to navigate, so here we go.
Look at all these black rocks/boulders. They are everywhere. Some look porous, some are shiny, many are just flat black What’s that about?
Finishing the switchbacks we have a meadow with great views in every direction.
This is Navajo Dome, a formation that often represents Capitol Reef. There’s lots more Navajo Sandstone formations both north and east.
Looking behind us (south) formations are a bit different, showing us a different type of sandstone. What type I don’t know but perhaps it is Wingate Sandstone.
We’ve been seeing so many black rocks/boulders. They don’t seem to fit here. What’s the story? Well, here you go, but please remember I’m no expert and I’ve simplified the narrative and without technical jargon. However, you’ll get the idea. Just a disclaimer, but feel free to let me in on your geology wisdom if you see a problem.
These rocks are primarily basalt–lava. About 20-25 million years ago (here we go again) volcanoes covered a large area of south-central Utah. These volcanoes poured out widespread lava flows. To the north and west of Capitol Reef were major volcanoes spewing lava across this area. As lava flows erode, black boulders are formed and transported, mainly via water, and deposited on other eroded rock along the way. Ancient streams and rivers, including the Fremont River (walked along at start of hike), cut across the Waterpocket Fold leaving behind the boulders.
Wait, that river was at the base of this mountain?? Remember–we are talking millions of years. The Fremont River was cutting through rock much higher than where we are now standing. It is a long process, but the black lava rock is a testament to erosion over t-i-m-e. For more from the Park Service, see here.
Now in the juniper shade we walk on sand. In some cases deep sand. Well that’s what happens to sandstone over millions of years. Not to mention the black rocks. Watch your step.
Here is very different type of rock along the trail. No idea as to identification, but it makes an interesting “cityscape”, don’t you think?
There are interesting holes in the rocks as we walk our sandy trail.
So what is it with these holes in the rock. Finally found it–thanks to the Park Service. These formations are Tafoni (Tafone = singular), also called honeycomb weathering or “swiss-cheese rock”. Found in sandstone in arid to semi-arid environments such as Arches National Park and here in Capitol Reef.
We are twisting and turning, back and forth, walking on rock, climbing up and returning to safer jumps down, searching for the trail. Well, a sure sign we are on the right track is continuing to head UP regardless of the zigs and zags.
Ahhhhh . . . Best to head counter clockwise, or so we hope. Do you see a trail ahead? Not seeing it . . .
We came across a couple other folks trying to figure out the way when suddenly one of them said, “There it is!” Duh . . . helps to stop and look up every once in a while when trying not to trip and fall.
We made it. Gorgeous view of Hickman Bridge right above us! This entire area is the Kayenta Formation. For a fascinating look into Kayenta and the original Jurassic Park, see here. By the way, St. George is Utah’s fifth largest city (and growing) and borders Arizona via I-15.
You might be thinking, “Looks like an arch to me.” Actually it is a type of arch, but other clues tell us that a river or stream was primarily responsible for its formation, eroding the rock from the bottom up. Still interested in the difference? Check out what the Natural Arch and Bridge Society says (scroll to second question). This type of erosion, caused by flowing water, is all around the base of Hickman Bridge. Can you tell water ran through this area undercutting the red rock? Remember, millions of years ago the land which the river was cutting through was as high as the bridge.
After quite a steep climb, we are beneath the bridge.
Now at the back of the formation in the shade. Ahhh . . . See where the sun is hitting the far end of the bridge at bottom? See the undercutting? Water will continue to erode this feature via rains and ice so in another million years the bridge may be boulders littering the valley floor.
What an awesome shaded rest area, especially because the rock we are sitting on a thin, flat, and staggered. OK, time to head back.
This loop trail now goes along the back of the long rock (left) that hosts the bridge at its north end.
Tafoni and other jagged erosion . . .
Whoa! Heading up to the bridge we were so focused on finding the trail and watching our steps we missed this amazing feature. I can stand in there with plenty of room above me!
Heading back down the all-rock trail we see this, a bridge in the making. We passed it by on the way up so let’s explore now. There’s just a short trail to see it closer.
Now imagine the continued water erosion, perhaps other streams or rivers reusing this wash on and off over thousands to millions of years. “Suddenly” bending to walk under the bridge as I did here will only be in the imaginations of future people standing a hundred feet below this “new” amazing bridge.
Heading down the last part of the trail we can see UT Highway 24 at right, the Fremont River at the base of the sheer red cliffs mid picture, and all the black rocks/boulders strewn across the hillsides!
They say people are just amazed by the number and location of black rocks and you can probably tell, I’m no different. Can you even begin to count the boulders as we look uphill? Like armies advancing, however slowly. I still wonder why they don’t just slide down the hill. They can be seen in some precarious locations, ready to attack. Well, never mind, they are fascinating.
Last walk to the trailhead and we see a whole different adventure unfolding.
Glad you came along and hope you enjoyed the geology even when trying to image the years by millions. Wonder what this land will look like in another million years. I never stop wondering and asking questions–how about you?
Until next time my friend, explore some geology in your neck of the woods.
