Between Dry and Wet–Northern Edge of Yellowstone

Six miles north of the Roosevelt Arch in Gardiner, Montana, runs Reese Creek which marks the northern boundary of Yellowstone National Park. This area is barely explored, and most people who come to Yellowstone don’t realize this dirt road, called Old Yellowstone Trail, is part of Park. Let’s walk toward Electric Peak among the sagebrush and along the creek. April is barely springtime in Yellowstone, but let’s see what we can see in the spaces between arid and water.

The sound of rushing water pulls me to view the creek not far from the parking area. Somehow the sound is more dramatic than this view. Maybe we will zig-zag from wet to dry and get both sides of this contrasting story.

Sagebrush dominates the landscape, but not too near the creek. Big Sagebrush likes dry plains and hillsides. The landscape looks relatively flat, but the dips and hills are quite significant as we walk along. Seeing what looks like a one to two foot sagebrush ends up being a seven foot sage sitting in a dip. Up and down we go.

Surrounded by Big Sagebrush is not an understatement since the sage closer to the creek are taller than me. They sit on lower ground protected from wind which can keep them smaller. Time to walk around the plants to the open ground along the creek where the cottonwoods, aspens, and assorted evergreens grace the water’s edge. Just a hint of color on branch ends speak to warmer days and summer leaves.

Walking up the hill away from the creek, we see Rabbitbrush among the sage. Without seeing them together, many people confuse the two, but they are very different and not related to each other.

Rabbitbrush (in the center) can grow to three feet tall with flexible branches. Sagebrush (right edge) grows much taller and has thick, dark-colored bark. Rabbitbrush has dense clusters of yellow flowers across the top of the plant in summer. Sage has yellowish-brown flowers growing along spikes. Sage’s grayish-green leaves have the intense smell of our Thanksgiving stuffing. This time of year, however, you have to lean in close to enjoy the familiar odor.

All along the way the Prickly Pear Cactus is turning green, but no flower buds yet. Those two to three inch rigid spines encourage you to step over the plants rather than on them. In another month their beautiful yellow flowers will emerge. The lichen-covered rocks scattered across the landscape add color and dimension along the ground.

So happy to see these little Moss Phlox popping up along and around the protection of the rocks. Protection from trampling feet and the wind which is significant today.

They are everywhere. Spring it here!

But we have seen no animals. There are almost always Pronghorn Antelope, deer, and elk, but not today. Hearing lots of birds, I’ve been surprised how few I’ve actually seen. There ahead, see it?  A trail leading up to the next level, but I have a feeling it is a migration trail rather than human-made. Animals aren’t stupid, they take the most energy efficient path to higher ground and it saves us some hard breathing to follow their lead.

I’m sure it is a migration trail, but with the sky getting darker, it’s time to head back. Turning around on any trail in Yellowstone gives a whole new view and new things you didn’t notice on the way up. Wow! Is that my car all the way down there? Yup. This really gives perspective–I’m feeing small. However, congratulations! We have now walked much further than 90% of the three million people who visit Yellowstone annually. Most people don’t ever walk more than 10 feet from their car unless on boardwalks.

So heading back I need to walk along the creek again. So refreshing and the rushing water gives a soothing rhythm to the walk. Rushing water to babbling water falls. I could sit here for hours. It will be a nice to return in a month when flowers line the banks.

Walking away from the creek, not to far from my car, there they are. Sneaking through the sagebrush, I’m hoping for a picture before they run, but they sure know I’m here. Blacktail Deer are also known as Mule Deer. Not a mystery how they got that name with those ears.

Back near the car now, and even more animals!

Oh my! The elk look like an army of moths got at them, but they are just losing their winter coats. The bulls are losing last year’s antlers as well. Once they’ve fallen away the new growth begins. The fully mature bulls can anticipate their antlers growing three to four inches a day in preparation for the September mating season. Those gorgeous, huge racks are used to battle for dominance and the right to procreate the next generation. They will stand in majestic authority over the autumn landscape, however, right now they are not very majestic. The cows “dominate” the spring–it’s soon to be baby time!

Well, same to you buddy! You’ll be beautiful again, I promise.

Ah, one of my favorite animals, Pronghorn Antelope. They are small and fast! Although Cheetahs are the fastest animals on earth, Pronghorn are the fastest sustained speedsters in the world. They are not really antelope and not related to African antelope. They are most closely related to goats and giraffes. Lovingly called speed goats, I see them as much more regal than that name suggests. Above is a female without horns. Some females have small horns, but it is believed the females dedicate too much energy to reproduction to have enough extra for horns. Horns, unlike antlers, do not shed and continue to grow the entire life of the animal. What I like best about the Pronghorn? They have amazingly beautiful eyelashes. I’m so jealous.

This experience right now is classic, iconic Yellowstone. You see lots of animals from your car, probably why most people don’t venture far from their vehicles. See? We took a hike between the water and grazing plains and where do we see animals? By the car. Go figure. Never mind, it was a beautiful walk today seeing the first signs of spring as the weary brown begins to surrender to flowers. Then the view of animals–right next to the car. It was a fun day. Until next time . . .