Part I: Southern Half of the Byway
Is there any doubt that visiting the Colorado mountains in autumn is a must-do adventure? The Silver Thread Scenic Byway is a 117-mile trip from South Fork through the central San Juan Mountains in southwest Colorado to Blue Mesa Reservoir. It is Colorado highway CO-149, a designated Colorado Scenic Byway and National Forest Byway. In 2021 it was named a National Scenic Byway, making it one of 13 America’s Byways® designated in Colorado. Visiting the mountains for what’s lovingly called leaf peeping, Colorado’s best chances for peak color is sometime between early-September to mid-October. We have our fingers crossed that we see good colors these first few days of October. Off we go!
Beginning in South Fork, we drive along the Rio Grande River for about 35 miles. Yes, the Rio Grande (Big River). It was a surprise to me too. I only knew the Rio Grande as the river border between Texas and Mexico. Upon reaching the 35-mile point on CO-149, we will turn north as the river comes down from the southwest mountains. Its headwaters are atop Canby Mountain at 13,478 feet on the Continental Divide in the San Juan Mountains.
As we drive along the Rio Grande, the other side of the road offers long band cliffs of volcanic welded tuff deposited from ancient volcanic eruptions. Volcanic activity was common in this part of Colorado. These rock formations are the Rio Grande Palisades.
Ah, the clouds/fog are lifting as the sun warms the valley. Oh, the colors! Along the river are mature cottonwoods (tall trees on left bank) and dense patches of willows. The cottonwoods turn gold and the willows soft to the most vivid yellows. These primarily grow along rivers and creek beds adding color to the valleys.
South-facing mountainsides are home to pines, primarily Ponderosa Pines in this area as we see above. Looking to the north-facing mountains, we see spruce, fir, and aspen. Ribbons of aspens . . .
The view toward the valley ahead is lovely.
The view on the other side of the road is a bit ominous. This is awfully steep with lots of stones and rocks on the road’s edge. No wonder they are building walls along this section of road.
Heading out of the Palisades, we enter the Rio Grande Valley. As the valley widens, ranches are seen here and there along the river. The mountains to the north offer us brilliant colors.
The old mining town of Creede is 10 miles ahead. It sits on a hill overlooking the now densely populated valley below. A few miles west of Creede the view east opens to see the snowcapped La Garita Mountains, Spanish for “the outlook”. This wilderness area speaks to its volcanic past. It was home to a huge supervolcano that erupted and virtually destroyed all the other volcanos in the area being perhaps the single largest eruption in history. See the fascinating history and facts here, with thanks to the Forest Service.
From Creede we continue 20 miles to the end of the valley and start uphill into the mountains. Most of the development and ranches are on the south side of the river, along with beautiful mountains of the San Juans.
With a footbridge over the river, the peace and quiet of such a hide-a-way might be nice. Then again, wildfires . . .
Here at the end of the valley we say goodbye to the Rio Grande River as we start up into the mountains.
This is our turn onto Forest Road 510 for a bit of an adventure. The colors are getting better and better the higher we drive. Still, can’t help but look back at the stunning gold.
On this well-maintained dirt road, we will be in the Rio Grande National Forest–quiet, undisturbed wilderness!
Heading uphill, South Clear Creek is below us and the willows lining its banks are in their winter cloak. Last June we walked to both South Clear Creek Falls and Lower South Clear Creek Falls. Right now our trip it is all about the landscape’s color–onward!
This is why they are called Quaking Aspen. Any slight breeze presents trembling or quaking leaves. South Clear Creek is heading east to join North Clear Creek creating Clear Creek which flows south into the Rio Grande River in the valley we just drove through.
On our up-and-down journey along FR 510 we visit a number of meadows. The colors along the way are stunning.
This golden stand of aspen are birthed from the same root system, making them clones–one tree genetically identical with each of the others. How? Aspen are unique in that their life force is the root system that develops clone trees. The trees are all similar in their branching, size, and color. Fall is the easiest time to tell a clone stand. They go from green to gold to perhaps orange to leaf loss in an identical manner with identical colors. Keep watching for different stands of clones by their color or lack of leaves on our journey.
Growing up on the East Coast, I always loved our birch trees. Birch and aspen can look similar, but they are entirely different and unrelated tree families. Check here for similarities and differences.
As we continue heading up, those aspens along the top almost look like forest lollipops?
These are the tallest aspen I’ve ever seen. They can reach 100 feet high and these may be that tall.
There’s the road we just came up.
From this scenic stop we see North Clear Creek.
Turning to look east is a view worth the trip! That flat-topped mountain with snow mid picture is Bristol Head. The La Garita Mountains can be seen far off at right.
You know me, I do love sunstars. Turning around from the great view above, I couldn’t help myself. Well, it is proof I really drove here anyway 😉 .
You may be wondering where this forest road ends. From here it is only about a mile to continue our journey on CO-149. The big surprise about half a mile away is beautiful 100 ft. high North Clear Creek Falls.
It is already chilly to cold in the mountains and you’ve seen the snow on mountaintops. What a delightful surprise to have a touch of summer holding on.
Stay tuned for Part 2, the glorious views and beautiful colors from the top of the mountain passes along CO-149!
See you soon . . .
