Part 2: Onward to Lake City
Come on along as we continue driving the Silver Thread Scenic Byway (CO-149). Our journey now takes us high in the mountains searching for gorgeous views and colors as we drive over mountain passes and stop at overlooks. I’m not sure there is a better place to find autumn splendor than the northcentral San Juan Mountains. Let’s go!
It is about 1pm and getting cloudy. We are sitting at the junction of Forest Road 510 and CO-149 deciding what to see next. The next part of the trip will be in the high country. High passes, beautiful views of mountains over 13,000 and 14,000 feet, and oh the colors! Did you notice the different clone stands above? We talked of them in Part 1. Some of the highest same-colored tree groupings are obvious but down the hillsides the stands are larger and telling them apart is more difficult. Look for various shades of gold, some orange, and some still shades of green. Keep watching as we go.
Let’s turn back south on CO-149 for 1-mile to see a view we don’t want to miss. Beyond the valley’s Brown Lakes is the Weminuche Wilderness, Colorado’s largest wilderness at 499,771 acres. It is named after the Weminuche band of Ute Indians who lived in southern Colorado and northern New Mexico. Congress established this wilderness in 1975. Can you see the 13,821 ft. Rio Grande Pyramid?
It is easier to see by zooming in. See it left? It certainly looks like a pyramid, don’t you think?
Back we go north on CO-149 and each turn in the road presents more beautiful views.
The Continental Divide crosses CO-149 here as does the Colorado Trail and the Continental Divide Scenic Trail. This is the only junction point for these two trails. Neither trail is for sissies like me. Then again I could hike 3-6 miles round trip and call it a day. Well, these are major backcountry hiking trails at high elevations, and serious bucket-list hikes for those who love this type of hiking adventure.
The Colorado Trail begins in Waterton Canyon south of Denver, zig-zags 486 miles across the state ending north of Durango in southwest Colorado. The Continental Divide Trail (CDT) is approximately 3,100 miles from the Mexican border to the Canadian Border. I love the part where they say, ” You can complete the trail in about 5.5 months by hiking a steady 20 miles every day”. YIKES! Or is that ouch! Regardless, joining the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail, the CDT is the most rugged of this Triple Crown of Hiking.
The Continental Divide occurs naturally and separates our continent’s river systems. River systems on the east of the Divide flow into the Atlantic Ocean. Those on the west flow into the Pacific. It is officially known as the Continental Divide of the Americas or the Great Divide. It begins at the Arctic Ocean in Alaska, travels through the Rocky Mountains, over to western Mexico into the Andes, ending at the southern tip of South America in Chile. Every continent has continental divides and North America has five, but the Great Divide is the longest in the world.
We are starting up switchbacks, getting higher into the mountains. What a great view of Mount Baldy Cinco. This name was first given to all five peaks in the entire western massif of the La Garita Mountains–that’s why “cinco” meaning five in Spanish. Over time it became the name of this individual peak standing at 13,383 feet. Are you wondering, ” What’s a massif!?” Pronounced mă-seef (loosely meaning massive), it is an Old French word but often pronounced măs-if. A massif is a large mountain mass or connected group of mountains that forms an independent section of a mountain range. My home sits beneath the Pikes Peak massif, a unique part of the Front Range of the Rockies.
What summit? This is the highest point on CO-149. This area called Slumgullion (sluhm-guhl-yuhn) is a geologic phenomenon. The summit is named after the Slumgullion Earthflow which can be seen a few miles down the road at Windy Point Overlook. Let’s go.
Between 700-850 years ago (age depends on which expert you ask) thousands of tons of water-saturated, earthen material broke away from Mesa Seco sliding four miles into the valley below. Named Slumgullion Earthflow, it dammed the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River and formed Lake San Cristobal, the second largest natural lake in Colorado. What’s the first largest you ask? It is Grand Lake outside the western entrance of Rocky Mountain National Park.
Then between 300- 350 years ago another section of Mesa Seco began slowly oozing down the hillside. It flowed over the older slide for an additional 2.5 miles. Today geologists estimate it is still moving downhill about 20 feet a year. Interesting, but why the name slumgullion? Take a look here for three possibilities 😉 .
Here at Windy Point Overlook we also have magnificent views of the northern San Juan Mountains with many peaks over 13,000 feet and 5 over 14,000 feet. We are standing at about 11,000 feet and our final destination for today, Lake City, is 2,000 feet below us. Let’s take a moment and enjoy the stunning views!
At center is Red Mountain (12,826 feet) and it really is red. The highest peak at left is Grassy Mountain (12,821 feet). They stand above Lake San Cristobal which we’ll see in a while.
Looking 15 miles north we see the highest peak in the San Juans (far right), Uncompahgre Peak at 14,321 feet. Skipping the super pointy peak, the next one, with snow, is Matterhorn Peak at 13,590, Wetterhorn Peak at 14,015, and Broken Hill at 13,256. Takes my breath away! You’ve probably guessed by now, I love the mountains!
Starting down the steep road, we get close to part of the Earthflow. This is the type of earth that makes up Mesa Seco. It is easy to see why getting water soaked it slid downhill.
I tried to walk up onto the flow. Probably made it up about 20 feet and the earth was crumbling under my feet. It was creepy. Well, did not walk very far but got a nice shot of the colorful flow. The good news is as the original slide raced downhill it carried much with it. The dam that created Lake San Cristobal is actually made of very hard rock swept down the hillside along with trees, plants, maybe a few mammals, and lots of the above dirt. The US Geological Survey believes the dam will not erode in less than 2,500 years from now. Pretty sure I won’t be here to see it.
About half way down the mountain to Lake City is the Lake San Cristobal Overlook. The lake is 2.1 miles long and up to 85 ft deep. Lake City, where we will be spending the night, is named after the lake. It is about 3pm and the sun peeking through the clouds rather ruins the lake’s colors. Let’s find a better angle.
Just up ahead is the turnoff for Lake San Cristobal. Oh the ribbons of gold winding their way down the mountainside!
County Road 30 takes us along the western edge of the lake. This dirt road takes you up over the mountains, only it is strongly suggested driving a 4×4 😉 . We’ll only drive a short distance for the glorious colors and mountain views.
Back on CO-149, it is only a few miles to Lake City. Let’s check in the motel followed by a short drive out County Road 20 along Henson Creek. We explored and risked the recommended 4×4 dirt road last June when searching for Nellie Creek Falls and Whitmore Falls.
The clouds have decided to give us a bit of rain, sleet, and snow so time to head to dinner and rest for the night.
Until tomorrow morning . . . sleep tight!
