Here we are, 7:30am at Mammoth Hot Springs to catch our snowcoach to Wonderland, driving to Old Faithful for a two-night stay. This winter started with warm temperatures, little snow, yet overcast skies with little sun. Then came February! Lots of snow, temperatures from -30 degrees to slightly above zero, and no sun. Unlikely we will see sun today, but you never know. We are heading to Old Faithful via the long route. From Mammoth to Canyon, along Yellowstone Lake to West Thumb, and over Craig’s Pass arriving at Old Faithful about 4pm.
Heading from Mammoth to Norris Junction, we stop at Roaring Mountain. Years ago the hissing and roaring from the thermal activity across the mountain could be heard miles away. Today you can still hear roaring on occasion if you listen carefully.
The mountain is covered with fumaroles, thermal vents that spew steam and gasses. These deadly gasses have killed many of the trees leaving a barren mountainside.
Obsidian Creek is on the other side of the road, here being warmed by Roaring Mountain thermal runoff.
Further down the road is Nymph Lake. With thermal vents not only on the hillside, but in the lake itself, it is a respite for all types of waterfowl in the frigid winter.
We head east at Norris Junction along the 12-mile road to Canyon Junction. This stretch is lovingly called by its “scientific” name–Pinus monotonous. A few miles from Canyon, we see the base of Mount Washburn but not its peak at 10,243 feet. Dunraven Pass, the highest point we can drive in Yellowstone at 8,900 feet, is up there too, but the road is closed in winter. We’ll stop at Canyon Visitor’s Center for a break.
Sitting at 7,917 feet above sea level, the Canyon area gets lots of snow and strong winds that can create huge drifts.
There’s the general store, what, you can’t see it? The back of the roof is apparently almost clear, but the view from the front is a mountain of snow. This winter Steven Fuller celebrates his 46th year as “winterkeeper” at Canyon. At 76 years young, he handles all the snow removal from buildings that may collapse under the snow’s weight. You go Steve!
Notice the crowds as we go from place to place? Ahhh, winter. Winter challenges the Rangers since their winter responsibilities include places greater distances from each other. The winter mode of transportation fits the need.
Turning south at Canyon Junction, let’s stop along the way and visit the Canyon’s waterfalls. It is snowing quite hard now, so cover up as we explore the new Upper Falls overlook. This area has been closed for two years and was completed and reopened late last fall. There’s our snowcoach and a new group picnic pavilion surrounded by feet of snow. We’ll have to come back in spring to explore this area’s new trails. Luckily our trail to the overlook is well packed. In winter, one packed trail in, same one out, any other walk you are up to your waist in snow. Nah.
The new overlook is wonderful, allowing us to fully embrace the winter beauty of the Upper Falls 109 foot drop along the Yellowstone River. BRRRR . . .
In the past we could only see the Canyon’s third falls by walking the North Rim Trail on the other side of the river. The new overlook allows us to see Crystal Falls, a three-tiered falls at the end of Cascade Creek falling 129 feet to join the Yellowstone River.
And of course, Artist Point’s view of the Lower Falls with its dramatic 308 foot drop. See the huge snow/ice formation in front of the falls? It forms not only from snowfall, but from the massive amounts of falls-generated mist freezing mid-air.
Now this is my idea of a crowd at Artist Point parking area. Last June it took me about an hour to find parking. After spending 30 minutes enjoying the Canyon’s view, it took me 45 minutes to get out of the parking lot. I sure love winter!
Our next stop is wide-open Hayden Valley, with the Yellowstone River on the east side of the road and large open meadows on the west. There are rolling hills across the valley and with the wind in winter, drifting snow can create their own hill. The wind also creates cornices as well as deep-snow challenges for the animals that live here all year.
This is a sight rarely seen here, a herd of bison cows and youngsters. They normally migrate to lower areas where the snow is not near as deep. However, with December and January’s pattern of milder temps and light snow, they got “trapped” in Hayden Valley as February’s heavy snow began to fall.
It was interesting to see them head up the hill seemingly careful of potential deep snow that would be challenging and energy draining to traverse. As the herd got to the top of the hill, the animals at the rear of the line came around to the front and the herd moved on. Are they taking turns breaking trail? It is an energy-draining task, and with nutritional grasses gone until spring, they must conserve energy. Fascinating!
Taking a quick break at Mud Volcano. There is so much steam here it is impossible to see the most dramatic attractions, but the trees are gorgeous.
Driving along the Yellowstone River, totally frozen over, we are now only a few miles from Fishing Bridge Junction. We’ll take our lunch break at the Fishing Bridge warming hut. Ah, a wood-burning stove and foot warming pads. We’ve been in a warm snowcoach, but those on snowmobile tours, dressed like the Michelin man (am I dating myself?), truly appreciate these retreats.
Back on the road, we drive along Yellowstone Lake. It is just one big mass of white and the clouds today keep us from seeing too far across. The lake is the largest high-elevation lake (above 7,000 feet) in North America and has many thermal features underwater. The amazing thing to me is that the lake’s ice, covering 132 square miles and ranging in thickness from inches to over two feet, completely disappears within one week each spring. Now you see it, now you don’t.
Here we are at West Thumb Geyser Basin at the south end of the lake which you can see in the background. Good news, the sun is peeking through the clouds!
West Thumb has interesting paint pots, also called mudpots. With a limited water supply, acid and microorganisms break down rock creating clay and mud which bubbles and pops in the thermal’s intense heat.
We are taking our time here and enjoying the sunshine. It is still below zero outside, so let’s get in the nice warm snowcoach and continue on.
At West Thumb Junction we head north, the last leg of our trip. I love this kind of traffic jam.
We must stop to see Kepler Cascades, a three-tiered waterfall that drops about 150 feet. This is our first glimpse of the Firehole River as it courses northeast out of backcountry territory near Madison Lake.
The view north from the overlook. The Firehole River will course its way through all the geyser basins until it joins the Gibbon River creating the Madison River about 18 miles north. The Madison is one of three rivers that forms the Missouri, the confluence being about 125 miles north. We are only about two miles from Old Faithful, our final destination for the day, so let’s go.
Here we are at Old Faith. The snow has stopped and the sun is streaming through the clouds. Time to check in, get settled in our cabins, freshen up a bit, and head to dinner at the Snow Lodge, the only Old Faithful lodging open in winter. What a great trip, and we even got sunshine. Ahh, there is never a bad day in Yellowstone!
Until next time my friend . . .
