Springtime in the Rockies leaves you guessing at the weather no matter what the forecast. Springtime along Yellowstone Lake is no exception. Surrounded by huge mountains that can generate their own weather further complicates forecasting. Yellowstone Lake, the largest fresh water lake above 7,000 feet in North American, covers 136 square miles and the winds can really move along that flat surface. Although we are starting our day with rain, some snow, a bit of ice called grapple, minimal wind thankfully, and seriously overcast skies, let’s remain hopeful.
We begin our trip at Fishing Bridge heading southeast 10 miles to Lake Butte Overlook. Let’s hope for brighter skies, maybe even some sun. On our way back we’ll be stopping along the northern shore of the lake to see what we will see. Always an adventure regardless of the weather, because my friends, there is never a bad day in Yellowstone!
Fishing was banned from Fishing Bridge in 1978. Aside from the elbow to elbow fisherpeople and fishhooks hitting cars as well as hooking each other, this has always been a prime spawning area for the native Yellowstone Cutthroat Trout (Oncorhynchus clarkii bouvieri), a subspecies of the Cutthroat Trout (Oncorhynchus clarkii). Human impact by fishing this spawning area became a serious concern for the Park Service resulting in the ban. Besides, if it was crazy in 1978 when just over 2,600,000 people visited the park, can you image today when over 4,000,0000 people show up! Although the Cutthroat have been in trouble due to non-native Lake Trout for a number of years, the Park Service’s efforts are showing success in bringing their numbers back.
This summer the Park Service will begin repairs to the 1937 bridge, and the roadway is in desperate need of new foundation and paving. Some of those potholes! Still looking pretty good though, don’t you think? There are footpaths on either side of the roadway. It is a nice walk, looking left up the Yellowstone River and right where it flows from the lake. However, rather than walk in the rain and snow that just started falling, let’s get going on our short road trip.
The road repairs this summer will happen over the three-mile span from Fishing Bridge to Indian Pond. This part of the road passes the RV campground with grocery/gift store, Visitor’s Center, and gas station. The closest hotel is the historic Lake Yellowstone Hotel about three miles behind us. Gorgeous, and designated a National Historic Landmark in 2015.
Indian Pond often has a wide variety of waterfowl in and around its water. We also find Storm Point Trailhead at this pullout. An approximate two-mile loop, you’ll pass the pond, walk through meadows, then along the lake’s edge, and back through the forest. Diverse landscape within a short walk. Not walking it today and not only because of crummy weather. It is closed in early spring for bear management. However, this is not a hike you ever do unless you bring bear spray–spring, summer, and fall!
So here we are at Lake Butte Overlook. We began our trip at Fishing Bridge with an elevation of 7772 feet above sea level. Here at the Overlook we are 8343 feet. With a 571 foot elevation gain, we now have high winds and snow. The wind gusts make it hard to stand steady, so stay away from the butte’s edge. On a clear day we have a great view from here. If you squint real hard you may be able to envision what you see straight ahead. Mount Sheridan (10,305 feet) is clearly visible as you drive along the western shore of the lake and about 30 miles from here as the crow flies. The exciting view is to see the Teton Range, about 60 miles away and visible on clear days. Grand Teton, the highest mountain in the range, rises to 13,775 feet.
Except for some of the bays and lake edges, ice still covers the majority of the lake. If we sit and listen, we may hear the lake beginning to “sing”. The ice creaks and breaks,” singing” to us, as the air warms, winds challenge, and spring takes hold.
This overlook gives us a view of the lake’s eastern edge. From here all the way to the southern edge of the lake there are many windfalls. Trees literally blown down by strong winds, some weakened by fire, others with soil too porous, and others just old and weak. This area has many dead trees from fire, and once they die, it is only a matter of time before the wind does its work.
Heading down from the Overlook and back toward Fishing Bridge, we stop at the far western end of Sedge Bay. Let’s cross the street to the small field overlooking the bay. Watch your step, the bison spend time here regularly and we have proof. Lots and lots of bison patties, some over a foot across. Big bison! See, there are a few small ones in the grass ahead of us. Lake Butte is straight ahead, although we cannot see the Overlook parking area from here.
Heading up the road a bit more we come to Steamboat Point, an active hydrothermal area. Wait to get out of the car. I’ll get out on my side, hide behind the vehicle, and take a picture. This huge bison bull has a new spring hat. It is snowing a bit as we see against the bison’s dark coloring.
Oh, there’s a big boy up there watching us. You can see the snow against his dark coat.
There are hydrothermal features all along the lake’s north shore, but this is one of the most colorful with easy access.
It is not only along the shore where hydrothermal features are found. The bottom of Yellowstone Lake, as with many land areas in the park, has geysers, hot springs, and deep canyons. A 390 foot canyon was found by researchers using a small submersible robot. Underwater geysers, hot springs, and fumaroles (steam vents) are found at Sedge Bay were we just were, Mary Bay where we are heading, and West Thumb, about 25 miles away.
The hottest spot in the lake is found at Mary Bay where temperatures have been recorded at 252°F. Here’s Mary Bay, but no indication there’s anything “cooking” beneath the water. Things are never what they seem, unless that melt further out is an indication.
Our last stop is Pelican Creek running toward the lake. This whole area is called Pelican Valley, but the valley itself is actually further inland. Pelican Creek makes this entire area a grazing meadow all summer with small, quiet ponds for waterfowl. On the lake side of the road, we see Pelican Creek entering the lake proper. There is some hopeful brightening on the eastern horizon. Keep your fingers crossed.
Little closer look at overflowing Pelican Creek.
The creek coming down from the mountains on the north side of the road is so flooded it looks more like Pelican Lake this year.
Back at Fishing Bridge, we see the Yellowstone River’s north exit from the lake. Yes, the Yellowstone River flows south to north. Weird getting used to coming from the East where rivers run downhill (north to south). Or so I thought.
Hooray, blue sky! Looking north, the river will flow through Hayden Valley then the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone creating the Upper and Lower Falls. The Yellowstone River is the last free-flowing river in the lower 48 states (no dams). It flows 692 miles through Wyoming, Montana, and North Dakota where it joins the Missouri River, the longest river in North America.
Well, heading back to Lake Hotel for lunch and hoping for some sunshine as the clouds break. Spring is so unpredictable in the mountains. Still, it has been a peaceful trip to Lake Butte. No views today, but something to look forward to in more predictable seasons. Besides, say it all together, there’s never a bad day in Yellowstone!
Until next time . . .
