Colorado Canyons and Mesas

Part 3–Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Well, it has taken me a long time to get this to you, but I know you’ll enjoy seeing geology from the beginning of time in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. No kidding. So what took so long?

I took a four-day trip to Rocky Mountain National Park which I will share another day. The bad news is I’ve spent most of June recovering from altitude sickness and dehydration. I had taken precautions so was very surprised how hard it hit me. This getting old thing is for the birds too! Just can’t fight off ill effects as you can when younger. These high elevations are no joke, so have studied up on most effective preparation for next time, because you know there’ll be a next time my friend!

In the meantime, let’s visit the South Rim of Black Canyon National Park. I know you’ll enjoy this!

Arriving at the first pull-out in the park at 7:30am, let’s walk the Rock Rim Trail and get our first view of the canyon. The Park Service tells us Black Canyon of the Gunnison exposes you to some of the steepest cliffs, oldest rock, and craggiest spires in North America. Soon you will see that truth for yourself.

Looking east from Tomichi Point, the Gunnison River is released through a series of dams, but is still a powerful river as it continues cutting through the canyon. The river is held back creating three consecutive reservoirs that are the Curecanti National Recreation Area. Love boating and fishing? That area is for you! The river travels about 40 miles from Curecanti to enter the Park. You can just make out the river in the red circle. Yes, the Gunnison River travels south to north. It will join the Colorado River in Grand Junction, between 50-60 miles northwest from here.

Our first glimpse of the river. It is called the Black Canyon because it is so narrow in sections that the sun doesn’t reach some places. Each time we see the river, note the canyon walls are very close to the river’s banks. We’ll talk of what it means to get down into the canyon on foot a bit later.

First time I’ve ever seen this wildflower. Took me forever to finally ID. It is a Balled Waterleaf (Hydrophyllum capitatum) and usually grows under sage or in thickets. It is a treat to have it growing in the shade right along the trail. The plant is apparently edible, but I don’t risk eating things growing along the trail. 😉

Looking across to the North Rim we have a spire right here that I’m guessing starts near the river. Lots of ways to get close to the edge, but no thanks. Height issues keep me back. Always fascinated with the trees that grow on rock and rock ledges. They survive on the dirt that is already there, blows in, and is created by crumbling rock. They rely on rain for water yet seem to grow tall and healthy even in this dry environment. Always amazing.

Whoa. A momma Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel (Callospermophilus lateralis). She never turned around to show us her pretty coloring similar to chipmunks, but lack of white cheek stripes and a large white eye ring is a give away as to it being a Golden-mantled. Can’t figure out if she is eating the grass or just weeding her garden.

Driving down to the next overlook, Pulpit Rock, we have a nice walk before reaching the canyon’s edge. Arrow-leaved Balsamroot (Balsamorhiza sagittata) are everywhere along the trails brightening our walk with lots of vivid yellow.

There’s Pulpit Rock Overlook. Yikes, pretty steep sides, but must go out there. Come on . . . you can’t be as fearful as me and I’m doing it!

Yikes again, I’m leaning over the edge. Am I getting braver with time???

Pink in the rocks used for the Overlook’s wall. Wait, more pink on the other side of the river . . .

Pink in dark rock–glad you asked! The Park Service offers a nice succinct explanation of geology history with much more than I offer here. You might want to check it out.

The dark rock is mainly Precambrian, often called basement rock, which actually accounts for Earth’s history from the very beginning until about 540 million years ago. If we condensed all of Earth’s history into a 1000 page book, the Precambrian would fill pages 1 through 880! 

Most of the these rocks are metamorphic, showing evidence of exposure to extreme pressures and temperatures. Some of the rocks are igneous, formed from magma that pushed up through cracks in the Earth’s crust where it cooled and crystallized.

The metamorphic rock dominating the walls of the Back Canyon is gneiss (pronounced “nice”). So what about those pink lines?

It is a granite-like igneous rock called pegmatite. It formed as hot magma forced its way into cracks of the metamorphic rock then cooled slowly allowing large crystals to form. Pegmatite is rich with shiny mica and large crystals of pinkish material called potassium feldspar.

We will see any many dark walls with pink pegamtite, but we also have side canyons and parts of the main canyon that look very different. This rock is from the Mesozoic Era. Mesozoic means “middle life” – this era lasted from 285 to 70 million years ago. In our 1,000 page book, the Mesozoic Era is pages 956-987 and encompasses how dinosaurs lived and died, birds evolved from reptiles, and the first primitive mammals appeared. The rocks are often Entrada Sandstone or the Morrison Formation, the red rock we see in many places like Garden of the Gods.

How many plants are holding on for dear life right on the edge of the canyon? This Mountain Parsley (Cymopterus lemmonii) is not close to me so thank goodness for long lenses. Lots of healthy lichen on the rocks too.

Our next walk is to Cross Fissures, about .2 mile to the canyon’s edge.

Here is another flower I’ve never seen before. It is a Mountain Death Camas also called Elegant Death Camas (Zigadenus elegans). Every part of the plant is highly poisonous, more deadly than strychnine. We’ll just enjoy the beautiful flowers and move along.

The wall on the left is Entrada Sandstone, Mesozoic rock very different from the darker walls at right. See the road on the far side? That is the North Rim Road and calls for another trip in the future.

All along this trail are Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia), also called Saskatoon. These shrubs range in height from 3 to 20 feet. Yes they have edible berries, but we are too early to partake. Also called Juneberry because the fruit grows and ripens during June.

Last view along Cross Fissures trail. Onward to our next pull-out, Devil’s Overlook. Hmmm . . .

We are heading down about .4 mile to see what the devil is up to. Just soak in the the amazing rocks and beautiful views!

Our next pull-out is Chasm View where we will see the narrowest width and third deepest point in the canyon.

Guess we have a walk up first though.

Wow. This point it is less than 1/4 mile from rim to rim and 1,820 feet deep. Let’s talk a minute about getting down to the river.

The Inner Canyon is consider a wilderness and you need a special permit to venture down. However, we are warned that it is critical you have the skills, experience, and proper preparation for the steep climb and overnight stays. The recommended first time walk to the river is via the Gunnison Route, starting at the Visitor Center. The distance down is 1.5 miles dropping 1,800 feet, holding on to chains along the steepest 80 feet of the descent. Why does that not sound like fun? Guess I’ll stick to the wimp rim walks.

Scarlet Paintbrush (Castilleja miniata) is one of my favorite wildflowers. Saw them all over Montana. Paintbrush come in a variety of colors, but this is the first red I’ve seen in Colorado.

Last view of the river on Chasm View trail. Next stop, the famous Painted Wall.

Spectacular from the overlook. Painted Wall is across the river and is the highest cliff in Colorado. From rim to river it stands 2,250 feet. Tough to really get perspective, even eagles look like spots on the rock. At canyon bottom the river is carving through 2 billion year old Precambian rock, mostly gneiss. I can’t even fathom “2 billion years” and we are staring at it.

If the Empire State Building was at the bottom, it would come up about 1/2 way.

Just for you my friend, hanging over the edge of the overlook fence for a river shot straight below. You can see there is very little space to walk along the river and the river runs fast. All the more reason you must follow very exact trails into the canyon. I like it fine from up here, how about you?

One last look at Painted Wall before out next stop. WOW! Takes my breath away.

Back by the car a nice gift. A Black-headed Grosbeak singing his heart out for over 30 minutes.

Gorgeous view from our next stop, Dragon Point, looking northwest toward the end of the canyon.

Our last stop is Sunset View. Lots of smaller side canyons, but still lots of caution needed–any fall could be serious or fatal.

Another surprise, on the far side of the side canyon. About eight Bighorn Sheep rams. This is their kind of environment.

From Sunset View overlook we see Red Rock Canyon, the furthest point along the Gunnison River in the National Park. What an amazing and different National Park experience. You know what? We must come again!

Something else of interest too. See the furthest mountain at right–looks blue from the mist? That is Grand Mesa which we visited on the way here.

Until next time my friend, enjoy the wonders in your neck of the woods by slowing down and looking around!