Inter-Laken Hike Along Twin Lakes

Here we are at beautiful Twin Lakes. We were here last year to drive up CO-82 and explore Independence Pass as well as hike to Linkins Lake. It was an 11,000 to over 12,000 foot adventure! The problem was it was only nice, make that great, weather the morning of those adventures. The rest of that day and every day spent in Twin Lakes it rained interspersed with terrible wildfire smoke. So here we are: try, try again!

On the south side of the Twin Lakes is a hike to an historic resort known as Inter-Laken. Starting around 1890 it was one of the finest resorts in all the Rocky Mountains. Also one of the most expensive. More on this later, but here we are at the trailhead, so let’s go! This is for you Howard.

Just beyond the huge fir tree on the right is a wonderful view of Mount Elbert (roundish mountain at right). At 14,440 feet, it’s the highest peak in the Rocky Mountain’s 3,000 mile stretch, from far northwest Canada to northern New Mexico. The other peaks toward left are part of the Mount Elbert massif (also means massive). A mountain’s massif has a specific geologic definition, but is used generally, as well as by climbers and mountaineers, to mean an individual mountain’s main mass.

The trail map shows this hike going along the edge of the lake, so it’s a surprise to be up in the woods. It is about 8AM, a bit windy and cool, but the shade of the forest is still delightful. At an elevation just over 9,200 feet, we have mostly subalpine foliage all around. We are walking among Quaking aspens, Ponderosa pines (watch for red bark), and a number of both firs and spruce. All kinds of ground cover most of which I don’t know. That’s OK, we’ll just enjoy!

It seems our trail is cut into the side of the mountain–uphill view at left.

In these deep woods we see many mats of these small flowers. They are Spotted Saxifrage. Don’t see the spots?

Here you go . . .

Watch your step around this big dead tree. There’s the red-barked Ponderosa pines on both sides of the trail. This is close to the highest elevation in which they live.

Well, can’t argue with the artistry of this tree, even in death!

Whoa, this is a bit gnarly! The trail is an “S” bearing right of the rocks then up left to where the dead tree is pointing. Be careful and take your time.

In this deeper forest area there is lots of moss and lichen. Lichen are fascinating. A complex life form that is a symbiotic relationship between two different organisms: a fungus and an algae. Let’s take a closer look. Aaaw, my faves! Pixie cup lichen. They are very easy to miss since they stand a whopping 1/4″ tall. It is easier to find them by looking for the habitat in general–mosses, other types of more visible lichens (make that strange shapes you notice), and sedum may be growing there too.

It appears we have two types of pixie cups. At left Peppered or Mealy (and a few other names) but best called by their Latin name: Cladonia chlorophaea. At right are their less powdery cousins: Cladonia sulphurina. See the brown circles surrounded by light-colored specs? How’s my technical language working for you 😉 ? Anyway, it is some type of Rinodina lichen.

Closer look.

The green leaf or scale formations are the basal growth of the cup lichens.

Identifying lichen can be challenging, but this one is easy. Pink-eyed Rockbright (Rhizoplaca chrysoleuca), but also has about four other common names which is why the scientific Latin name brings clarity to the the process of identification. Then again, trying to correctly pronounce those Latin names, then remembering them, is a whole other challenge!

All of a sudden hearing a very loud, high-pitched bird call. Let’s keep looking as we continue on.

It’s an Osprey, actually two. I’ve seen many over the years but never heard them carry on like this!

Ah, there’s the answer. Watching for a few minutes, both parents visited the nest. We are at too steep an angle to see any young, but by way of parental behavior, there are young in the nest. Osprey feed almost exclusively on live fish secured by diving into waterways, rarely going deeper than three feet to catch fish 6-12 inches long. They are successful over 70% of the time which is amazing. Osprey are fascinating raptors, so take a look.

Now this is a nice trail–wide, flat, total wimp territory I never mind.

Turned the corner and there’s a bridge. That means this creek runs all year. If it were just spring run-off it would be up to you to ford the creek and hope for the best.

Looking upstream, there are “waterfalls” all along the way. I know, lame waterfalls, but they add a sweet sound to the forest.

We are in aspen heaven now with very few conifers. This must be amazingly beautiful in autumn.

Wait, we are being watched!

I think I see our first hint of arriving at Inter-Laken.

Here we are at the Dexter House. James V. Dexter bought the failing resort in 1883 and built this house for himself in 1895. I’ll let you read about the resort here, here, and here.

The barn . . . .

. . . two granaries and the hotel. There are other buildings on site waiting for renovation, but the open space, easy access to the lake, and the number of birds makes this a delightful stop for a snack before heading back.

Keep your eye peeled for things we missed on the way out. Always worth a walk or a drive in the opposite direction. Never know what wonders await from a different perspective. The wildflowers are everywhere!

We can’t forget to acknowledge the Colorado Blue Spruce, Colorado’s state tree. Very slow growing, but they sure stand out among the aspen.

Suddenly seeing mushrooms all over as we head back into the conifers. Trying to identify mushrooms is even more of a challenge than lichen! I think this one, which was about a foot across, is a Russula brevipes, also call a Short-stemmed Russula or Stubby Brittlegill.

Scaly Pholiota (Pholiota squarrosoides) found a home in a dead tree stump.

Two more I don’t know so feel free to find the names and let me know.

These are small. The entire formation was about 8″ across.

It is just a short walk now, but since the wind has stopped we have lovely lake reflections (looking east). With less than a 1/2 mile to the parking lot, we will have walked about 4.2 miles today. Since I rushed looking at the topo map, I thought we’d be walking just under three miles. We did good at over four!!

Until next time my friend . . .