Colorado Canyons & Mesas

Part 2–Grand Mesa

Grand Mesa, the largest flat-top mountain in the world, stands over 11,000 feet and covers 500 square miles (320,000 acres). It is 6,000 feet above Grand Valley, where we stayed in Grand Junction to explore Colorado National Monument. So here we go, taking Grand Mesa Scenic Byway, CO-65, on a 50-mile, 5,100 foot elevation-gain journey south to the Uncompahgre Valley. Like that word? OK, I’ll help: oon – come – PAH – gray. Ute Native American word meanings include “warm flowing water,” “where water makes rock red,” and “red soil”. It was the area’s waters that inspired the name, but Uncompahgre is also the name of a 1.5 million acre plateau, a 75 mile-long river, and the 6th highest mountain in Colorado at 14,321 feet. Sounds like an exploration for another day but now? Onward to exploring Grand Mesa!

For the first eight miles the road follows Plateau Creek between canyon walls. The creek flows 50 miles, east to west, joining the Colorado River were we turned onto CO-65 from I-70. Our elevation is about 5,400 feet. I like to keep tabs on elevation so bear with me. 😉

Many of the canyon walls seem to arc around the creek. Did the creek carve this canyon? I can’t find an answer to that question.

The rocky terrain is changing a bit with huge boulders sitting high above the road. Let’s hope none fall anytime soon. Such a fall could certainly flatten any vehicle.

Passing through the small town of Mesa, we enter a farming area known as Plateau Valley. Mesa sits about 6,000 feet above sea level. Beautiful green grass, but the aspens have no leaves higher in the valley and up the ridge. Those whitish areas are aspen groves. I’m sure we’ll see many more. This spot must be glorious in autumn!

Lovely wide open views of Plateau Valley from this observation site at about 9,000 feet.

We drove about 10 miles from Mesa and up about 3,000 feet for great views. Zoomed in on Chalk Mountain. One thing I’ve noticed in red rock country, there is lots of natural chalk among the sandstone. Yup, like blackboard chalk or climbing chalk. A whole mountain made of chalk? Don’t think so, not how geology works, but since it is a popular hiking mountain with fantastic views, we will have to visit one day. See the aspens beginning to leaf in front?

So much to see and do, so little time!

Looking north/northeast we see the Roan Cliffs and Roan Plateau in back.

As we negotiate switchbacks up the mesa, we see aspen blooming on the sunny side of the road.

But in the least sun soaked areas, the aspens’ white bark stands in contrast to winter browns and evergreens.

Another switchback to stop and look around. First to the mountain snow holding on.

Then the view of where we just drove.There’s Chalk Mountain at upper right and Roan Plateau upper right corner. See the dark jagged edge of Grand Mesa from mid picture toward right behind Chalk Mountain? We had planned to drive to Land’s End Observatory which sits on the edge of the mesa touting incredible views west. Unfortunately, the road is still closed for snow. Well, sounding more and more like a second visit to this area is necessary.

Closer to the top of the mesa we start seeing lakes. There are about 300 lakes and reservoirs on Grand Mesa. Because much of the mesa’s top sits at about 10,000 feet, summer offers many trees and greens (not yet tundra zone) as well as delightful cooler temperatures. With many campgrounds and some lodges, people come to enjoy backcountry adventures. Many lakes are accessible only by ATV, four-wheel drive, horseback, or on foot and offer excellent fishing, great views, and relaxation.

Winter brings lots of snow and cold temperatures. Winter sports thrive here. On the way up we passed Powderhorn Mountain Resort for downhill skiing. Up here there are dedicated cross-country ski/snowshoe trails and many snowmobile trails. Today, however, it is about 50 degrees, occasional sun, wind at times. It is nice having my fleece jacket on hand.

Our first lake! Jumbo Reservoir. Thought it was a strange name. Jumbo it is not, but apparently it is full of trout, as are most of these cold-water lakes. Although Cutthroat Trout are the only natives, lakes and creeks are also home to Rainbow, Brook, and Brown Trout. In lakes lower than about 6,000 feet, Large and Smallmouth Bass, Walleye, Sunfish, Bluegill, as well as Rainbow Trout can be had. Ahh, my kind if fishing! Living in Montana you NEVER mentioned fishing for bass in lakes. Sooooo un-cool. Fly-fishing for trout was THE only way to be a true fisherperson. Hmmmm . . . Well, Grand Mesa is said to be a fisherpersons’ heaven whether in a boat, standing in a creek, or sitting in a chair on lake’s edge.

As we get higher, we can see lakes not visible before, in this case Sunset Lake.

Here we go, last big UP?

This is just taking my breath away! We see Jumbo Reservoir mid far right, Sunset Lake mid picture. See Chalk Mountain? Then the Roan Plateau with Roan Cliffs in front, and further left we have the Book Cliffs we saw in Grand Junction. Stunning views at 10,000 feet!

Our first wildlife sighting! OK, no big deal but I like these little critters. Yellow-bellied Marmot (Marmota flaviventris), but this guy/gal is very small. Yes, they are related to groundhogs, also called woodchucks (Marmota monax), but their habitats are very different. Where groundhogs prefer meadows and pastures near wooded areas, marmots live in large rock outcroppings, which accounts for their alternate name of “rockchuck”.

We’ve arrived at the highest point on the road, about 10,700 feet. Crater Peak at 11,327 feet is the highest point on Grand Mesa. Often Leon Peak is called the highest peak, but only in Mesa County, not on the mesa itself. Crater Peak, 91 feet higher, is in Delta County and very challenging to get to, only accessible by four-wheel drive vehicle. Leon Peak is significantly easier to get to and has a campground near the trailhead. Well, since I’m not attempting either, not taking sides. They both can be hiked, but entail lots of steep rock scrambling and boulders on the final ascent. Think I’ll stick to the great views from the road.

We are starting to get views south over the crest on CO-65. Those are the West Elk Mountains looking southeast.

Island Lake is not ready to give up winter quite yet.

From the Grand Mesa Visitor Center (10,000 ft), which is closed until June, we get a peek at Deep Slough Reservoir with edges giving way to spring.

The clouds up here are just beautiful today.

About three miles down from the Visitor Center is a small pond that is actually called Ward Creek. Could it be the work of beavers? See their den mid picture at right? Let’s look closer.

The den/dam doesn’t seem to be changing the environment, although beavers are well know for changing habitats to suit their needs with their construction skills.

One of the last high points with views to love. This is the Uncompahgre Valley. From here we can see the West Elk Mountains at left. Further away and only appear to overlap, the San Juan Mountains south. The San Juans have denser snow on top and are across the entire south view, but are hard to see because we drove too low before stopping–dang!

We are heading down to Cedaredge, Eckert, and ultimately Delta to head east on US-50. This leisurely drive through farmland is just lovely.

Hooray, flowers in bloom. Spring Beauty (Claytonia lanceolata) is a small flower and easy to miss, but a sure sign of spring.

I found a special flower, like finding a four-leaf clover which I never find. My grandfather could pick a four-leaf clover within a minute of stepping on grass. Never in my skill set but keep trying! Spring Beauty “always” has five petals, but this one has six. Jackpot!

Sometimes they look vividly striped.

Guess you can tell I am excited to see flowers again! What a great day on Grand Mesa. Heading to a campground cabin for a few days in lovely Uncompahgre Valley. Tomorrow heading to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park so stay tuned. However, right now? What a gorgeous end to a wonderful day.

Until next time my friend . . .