There is so much to explore around Trinidad Lake State Park. Let’s start by taking a noon-time walk on Levsa Canyon Trail not far from the Visitor Center. This mile-long loop trail is designed to help us explore the Piñon-Juniper forest, one of Colorado’s most dynamic ecosystems. Often called the Pygmy forest, this ecosystem is known for short, drought-tolerant trees; coarse, well-drained soils; only 10-20 inches of precipitation a year; and wildlife specially adapted for dry, sometimes harsh conditions. Speaking of harsh conditions, the wind is beginning to seriously pick up speed, so let’s go and enjoy while we can!
Mostly, I hope to see Levsa Canyon. Having visited both Reilly Canyon and Long’s Canyon south and west near the lake, I have yet to see anything remotely resembling a canyon. Hoping this trail will be different. Here we go.
Something else I’ve yet to see around the lake? A sign not tilted or bent by the wind. It is windy here much of the time, often steady at 20 mph which can make for a challenging hike, feeling more like a workout.
Our first view of the lake along the trail. We are looking southeast as the sun peeks through the clouds.
Well, the trail looks nice, onward to the canyon. Watch your step.
This is the Pygmy forest with both piñon pines and one-seed juniper trees. The Piñon Pine (Pinus edulis) is common in southern and western Colorado on mesas, rocky slopes, and ridges. The piñon is the whole right front of picture. This bushy tree grows to about 40 feet and lives hundreds of years. Some make it to 1,000 years old. It grows slowly and usually has branches all the way to the ground. Piñons only grow its seed-filled cones every three to four years. These seeds are an important food source for wildlife. However, they are apparently pleasant tasting and fairly nutritious for humans as well. Many southwestern Indian tribes prized them as a food source.
The juniper is that tree at the end of the trail. They are the smaller, pointy-top trees in this forest. The brown tree (dead leaves) at left is a Gambel or Scrub Oak and are plentiful in piñon-juniper forests.
The trail is getting more gnarly than I expected. Be careful and really watch your step now!
As we continue walking west, surprise! A super view of the Culebra (koo-leh-bra) Range of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the mountains that surround the north and east sides of Great Sand Dunes National Park. The highest peak in the range is Culebra Peak, Colorado’s southernmost 14er, standing at 14,047 feet. The Peak is privately owned along with the 83,000 acres on which is stands. The Culebra (Spanish for snake) Range is 35 miles long and also brags 19 mountains over 13,000 feet. No wonder they can hold onto clouds.
Behind us is a small meadow with flourishing walking stick cholla (Cylindropuntia imbricata). There are many names for these cholla (chaw-yah) including candelabra cactus, tree cactus, shrub cactus, cane cactus, and chainlink cactus. Chollas thrive all over southern Colorado, as well as most southwestern states. This cactus is as tall as me, but can grow to over six-feet tall and five-feet wide. The yellow growth on the end of stems are the plant’s fruit. Their large pink to bright purple flowers bloom in June and July. Looks like another trip to savor the beautiful flowers.
Cholla is Spanish, meaning “head”, but no one is sure why this cactus got the name. There are many natural features in southern Colorado with Mexican Spanish names because much of the land originally belonged to Spain and then Mexico.
After the war of 1848, the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo bound the US to respect Mexican citizen’s property rights. Sounds good, but ultimately many, and in some states all, of the land grants were nullified in the US courts over time. In this area of Colorado, however, there are still land grant that have been affirmed legal. It is a fascinating history.
Today a large portion of the region’s population is Hispanic, many descendants of the early settlers that had land grants in the area. They continue to nurture a strong and lively Hispanic culture throughout the entire state.
We are heading up again. I wonder if we will be standing above the canyon?
Suddenly another wide opening looking northwest to the Spanish Peaks. Left is West Spanish Peak (13,626 ft) and right East Spanish Peak (12,683 ft). OK, not particularly creative names, but this pair of peaks are unique both geologically and historically. We will take another trip to explore the geology, but their history includes hundreds of years serving as a guide to the Indians, the Spanish and Canadian trappers and traders, as well as travelers coming from the East along the Santa Fe Trail.
The Plains Indians originally named them “Huajatolla”, meaning “breasts of the earth”. Ancient people attributed divine powers to these mountains and believed they gave sustenance to all things.
Let’s take a moment to consider my using the word “Indian”. Did you flinch when I said it? As we got more politically correct and began using Native Americans, we forgot that generalized term applies to many people, including most of us. Anyone born in America is a native so the original indigenous peoples need a better clarifier. Historically the name “Indian” was not meant or taken derogatorily. As with any name, other nasty adjectives makes the name derogatory.
Also remember that the native peoples were not a single group but consisted of hundreds of individual nations, each with a unique tribal name. Regardless, many of those nations proudly call themselves Indians and prefer that name. Others prefer first nations (found more in Canada) or their tribal name with nation. If you want to hear what Indigenous folks themselves have to say, take a look.
Watch your step, it is getting steep and these rocks do give way.
Our first look southwest over Trinidad Lake.
We are seriously heading down, can barely make out the trail.
Whoa, be careful!! This steep switchback calls for caution. FYI, I did nothing funky with the photo to enhance the drop. Honest!
Phew! Hiking down doesn’t seem so bad now.
Nice wide open view of the lake–and you can see by the whitecaps the wind is picking up. At the far end on the right edge of the lake is the Purgatorie River inlet. Also known as the “Purgatory River”, the English translation for the French word “Purgatorie”. The story told says that French trappers named the river to commemorate Spanish explorers killed by Apache Indians. However, there is also a Spanish name for the river.
The river’s full Spanish name is El Rio de Las Animas Perdidas en Purgatoir (The River of Lost Souls in Purgatory). What’s the story behind that? Glad you asked!
This area was first explored by an illegal Spanish expedition in the late 1500’s. The group included priests, soldiers, and miners. As the expedition’s quest continued, the leader’s second in command became increasingly jealous and angry finally killing the group’s leader to take over leadership. As a result, the priests returned to Mexico, refusing to continue with an “evil leader”.
The rest of the group continued their quest venturing into this area which today is part of Colorado’s Las Animas County. It was here where Indians attacked and killed the entire party. The priests all left the group before the massacre, so the souls of the dead where deprived last rights from the church, condemning them to wander forever in purgatory. Today it is believed that the story is a combination of French and Spanish takes on the happenings, but since experts seem unable to straighten it out, we’ll just go with this most told Spanish version. The official name of the river, though, is the French spelling.
The Purgatorie River’s headwaters are about 20 miles west from this walk. After leaving the lake, the river heads northeast through Trinidad to finish its 196 mile journey joining the Arkansas River near the town of Las Animas.
Well, up we go again, heading east now. Canyon nearby?
Ah, nice eastern view of Trinidad and the lake’s dam. Also a nice park bench out of the wind to enjoy the view.
The Army Corps of Engineers built Trinidad dam to serve multiple purposes including flood control, irrigation storage, and recreation–in that order. This earthen-filled dam is 6,860 feet long (road on its top) and 200 feet high. Oh, I never mentioned, this is no small lake. It is about three miles long and one mile across its widest point. The Corp completed the dam in 1979.
Looking southeast we see Trinidad’s sentinel, Fishers Peak (9,633 ft). Fishers Peak State Park became Colorado’s 42nd state park in September 2020. See? Good things did happen in these last few crazy years. The park is 19,200 acres of largely untouched wilderness with plans in place to preserve and protect as people begin enjoying its beauty.
Continuing along the trail there are suddenly lots of birds flitting in, out, and around the trees growing down this steep drop. They are so fast it is hard to ID them. Ah, a few landed close by and though we can’t see the entire bird, we see enough for an ID. Cedar Waxwings, my favorite bird.
The wind is so strong now I can barely stand still long enough for a good shot plus the birds are moving so fast. Well, best I can do today, so here you go, Cedar Waxwing. They ALWAYS look as if painted on the landscape. Amazingly gorgeous! I’m not kidding, check the link.
We are back at the beginning of the loop trail. The trail took us along this steep drop to the lake, where we saw the waxwings to the right with the cliff offering them some protection from the wind.
OK, did you see a canyon? Could this be the “canyon”? Every “canyon” I’ve not seen here increases the mystery. I need to ask a ranger how they define “canyon” in southern Colorado?!?
This short trail did offer amazing views and I bet interesting flora in spring in summer. Sounds like a spring trip is calling my name! It is about a 1/4 mile walk to my SUV from here. This has been fun, but I’m ready to be out of the wind!
Until next time my friend . . .
