Mesa Verde is the first national park of its kind. Established June 29, 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt to “preserve the works of man”. As years pass the Park’s talented staff continue to focus on preservation of the centuries old cultural and natural resources of the Ancestral Pueblo People. Mesa Verde is a World Heritage Site and International Dark Sky Park best known for its amazing cliff dwellings. But Mesa Verde is about so much more. Our first mission? Explore the northern hills including Mesa Verde’s highest point, Park Point at an elevation of 8,571. The drive over the hills is 15 miles, but it will take us at least 30 minutes. Yes, it is a twisty, turning, steep 15mph drive, but you know we’ll have to stop along the way for the views my friend. Let’s go!
As we enter Mesa Verde, it is good to have a general idea of what our journey will look like. Thanks to Earthtrekkers.com who have one of the best maps I’ve found. The Park’s Visitor Center is on the left near the main and only park entrance. Four miles down the white road is the only campground in the park: Morefield Campground with 267 sites. If not staying in the park, Cortez on US-160 has many motels and hotels. The white road ends at Far View Lodge, the only lodging in Mesa Verde. At that point we will have a choice to make as to which mesa we want to visit, but first let’s enjoy the mountain views.
We are driving up into the mountains (North Rim) which run along Mesa Verde’s entire northern boundary. Mesa Verde is in the far southwest corner of Colorado not far from Four Corners with its tribal monument celebrating the meeting of four states in one place: Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado.
But wait, isn’t a mesa flat on top? That map makes obvious that the park isn’t flat. You are right! Mesa Verde is not a mesa but a cuesta (kwes-tuh). Mesas are isolated flat-topped highlands with steep sides as we saw in Monument Valley. A cuesta has mesa characteristics but gently slopes down in one direction, in this case to the south. That sloping side is made up of smaller mesas separated by canyons. In Mesa Verde the canyon bottoms at the southern border (see Cliff Canyon on map) are about 6,000 feet in elevation compared to Park Point at 8,572 feet on the north border. Alcoves in canyon walls are where we find the cliff dwellings.
The views along the entrance road and Pilot Peak are long, wide, and stunning. Looking northeast across Mancos Valley we see US-160 heading to Colorado’s San Juan Mountains.
Looking northwest and west across Montezuma Valley with Sleeping Ute Mountain at left and straight ahead the Abajo Mountains in Utah.
Last stretch of road taking us to the decision point. Which of the two mesas we will explore first: Chapin Mesa or Wetherill Mesa.
Arriving at the road’s fork, a right takes us to Wetherill, continuing straight to Chapin. Staying here at Far View Lodge saves a lot of extra driving and the views are indeed far–and beautiful. The restaurants are good too.
The choice at the fork in the road became very easy. Wetherill Mesa is closed. It typically opens in mid April, closes the end of September. This year’s opening date is May 23–today is May 15. Since the opening date can change each year, and random emergency closures are not unusual, visiting Wetherill requires prior planning. I’m a planner but didn’t realize how important it is in Mesa Verde!
The Park’s web site says you should plan an entire day to visit Wetherill, but why? First, you cannot drive to most all the features. It’s a very good idea to bring a bicycle or you’ll be hiking a lot. Also, Wetherill’s gate opens at 8:30am and you must exit by 4pm. I’ll let the Park Service tell you all about Wetherill Mesa and share a few sights we won’t be able to see.
So here we go to Chapin Mesa, home to Park Headquarters, the archeological museum, book store, many mesa top sites, and cliff dwellings. Chapin Mesa access road is open all year but still takes planning because much along the route may be closed depending on the season you visit.
If you head to Mesa Verde, prior planning is very important, more so than in any National Park I’ve visited. Review the Park’s web site for weather conditions, closures, opening dates, and alerts. If you want to walk around the cliff dwellings, you must secure an advance reservation for a ranger-led tour, but the tours are not offered year round. When Wetherill Mesa is open, Step House is the only free, self-guided tour of all the cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde. Planning ahead is critical for your best experience in Mesa Verde and especially for Wetherill Mesa.
But wait, I have a few things rumbling around in my mind. If you are like me, are you wondering what happened to the Anasazi? They are no longer mentioned at the Monuments and Parks in the southwest including Mesa Verde. As it turns out, there was no such Native American tribe known as Anasazi. It was a general term used by archeologists to talk of the many ancient peoples and tribes in the Four Corners area of northeast Arizona and northwest New Mexico, as well as adjacent areas of Colorado and Utah, from 1-1300 CE.
In archeological research they always preferred using a more precise identification of the people at Mesa Verde–Ancestral Puebloans or Ancestral Pueblo People. Modern Puebloans also disliked the Anasazi label. It is actually based on a Navajo word meaning “ancestors of the enemy” or “ancient strangers” which can be taken as an ethnic slur and misrepresents the relationship between Pueblo and Navajo peoples. Out of respect for modern Puebloans, their ancient relatives are officially called Ancestral Pueblo People. If you’d like to dig a little deeper into their world, see here.
The Ancestral Puebloans were nomadic, living in areas surrounding Mesa Verde for thousands of years. In approximately 550 CE more permanent farmsteads started appearing on Mesa Verde. Although the people still hunted and collected wild foods, they began planting corn, beans, and squash as more reliable food sources. This change in lifestyle resulted in permanent homes and the first were pithouses–homes half underground. The earth offered insulation to stay cool in the summer and warmer in the winter.
Between 750and 1100 CE pithouses gave way to villages of single-story pueblos. Over time the pithouse began to resemble a kiva (kee–vah) which is a circular room partially or entirely underground used for religious ceremonies and other special gatherings. Kivas are often referred to as ceremonial chambers but it is also believed that small family gathers happened in these spaces.
Between 1100 and 1200 CE, as the craftsmanship and masonry quality improved, larger villages of multi-story buildings and towers were built. These 650 years of building all took place on the mesa’s top (more in depth information about mesa top dwellings).
Then in 1200 CE to 1300 CE there was a major population shift with many people building and moving into cliff dwellings for which Mesa Verde is famous. Both mesa top and cliff dwellings are built with hand-carved square stone and mortar. Mortar, a simple word we take for granted, but the mortar on these structures has lasted for centuries. Today mortar lasts about 25 years and archeologists working with craftsman have not been able to duplicate these ancient people’s mortar. Wait . . you mean WE today are not the “masters of the universe”? Reality check . . .
Archeologists have identified about 5,000 Ancestral Puebloan sites at Mesa Verde. Of those only about 600 are cliff dwellings. Let’s take a closer look.
Cliff Palace is the largest known cliff dwelling in North America. It is not actually a palace, but a city that has 150 rooms and 23 kivas (important gathering places), and once housed over 100 people. With about 600 cliff dwellings within Mesa Verde, 75% have only 1-5 rooms and some are single room storage units. These larger sites could be like hubs, similar to today’s county seat town with resources for multiple small rural communities.
This exceptionally large dwelling is thought to have been a social and administrative headquarters site where important ceremonial events took place. That’s why there are so many kivas in one location.
“Even though we physically moved away, the spirits of my ancestors are still here. If you stop for a minute and listen, you can hear the children laughing and the women talking. You can hear the dogs barking and the turkeys gobbling. You can hear and feel the beat of the drums and the singing. You can smell the cooking fires. You can feel their presence, their warmth, their sense of community.”
TJ Atsye, Laguna Pueblo (NPS)
Those circular places are the kivas. At one time kivas had ceilings that archeologists believed could be walked over yet provided light. What material and/or structural design would allow that in an alcove is not totally known but is interesting to ponder. Another reality check?
Before you forge ahead and make your required advance reservation for a cliff dwelling tour, it is critically important to FIRST read the physical challenges, I call warnings. On the reservations page, scroll down to your preferred tour and read What to Expect. Afraid of heights? Have a heart condition? Able to climb at minimum 10-12 foot ladders without help? Visiting from elevations well below 7,000 feet? In my case, heights and me are not friends. Exploring via a video tour is often my best option, in this case for Cliff Palace. Dang! Well, at least we get to hear the different Park Rangers’ perspectives. Think you’ll enjoy!
Are you thinking I’m a bit of a wimp about those ladders? I don’t blame you, fear of heights is a bummer. However, you cannot see Balcony House from the road so have no idea of possible challenges.
The What to Expect narrative for Balcony House might give you second thoughts, but better to have them BEFORE paying for a tour:
On this one-hour tour of Balcony House, you will climb a 32 ft ladder, crawl through an 18 in wide by 27 in tall tunnel extending 12 ft long, and climb up a 65 ft open cliff face with 31 ft of steep uneven stone steps and two 18 ft ladders to exit.
Sound like fun? Then go for it! Otherwise check out the video they made especially for those of us who chicken out.
Folks, it is critical to know what you are getting yourself into well before making tour reservations! However, taking a tour could be an experience you’ll never forget! Just check it out first.
Spending time at the Park Headquarters, the Museum, and of course the bookstore, Spruce Tree House is right down the hill. Let’s go.
Spruce Tree House is the best preserved and third largest cliff dwelling in Mesa Verde. Cliff Palace and Long House on Wetherill Mesa are larger.
This dwelling has about 130 rooms and 8 kivas. They think 60-80 people called this home. It is believed that the protection from weather in this particular alcove accounts for 90% of the features you can see such as walls, wood, and plaster, being original. These buildings are between 745-835 years old. Now that is amazing craftsmanship!
Although you can walk down closer to Spruce Tree House, it has been closed since 2015 due to rock fall dangers. The alcove itself has become quite unstable. Until a full geotechnical assessment can be done, the dwelling will remain closed. Still, this is a pretty good view.
Square Tower House features the tallest standing structure in the park with original plaster and paint plus rock art. This is one of only a few Mesa Verde backcountry tours, special range-led tours to lesser-seen cliff dwellings.
The view from this overlook is great, but being down for a more intimate look is very special. As always, best to read What to Expect and sadly this heights-adversed adventurer will never attempt this adventure. Sigh . . .
Boo-hoo, but:
This strenuous ranger-led, 2-hour tour is a 1-mile (1.6 km) in and out access along an unpaved, uneven trail. It descends 120 ft (37 m), and includes steep drop-offs, switchbacks, and two 16 ft (5 m) ladders. Each hiker must be able to scramble over boulders, walk a 34 ft long (10 m), narrow cliff ledge, navigate steep gravel trails, and descend/ascend ladders unassisted.
Know your physical health and fitness before joining a Square Tower House tour. Elevations range between 7,000 and 7,500 ft (2134 m and 2286 m) above sea level. You should plan for all weather possibilities because conditions can vary. It’s possible to begin your hike in full sun and end with a thunderstorm. Bring a minimum of 1/2 gallon (2 liters) of water per person.
Six people joined the ranger (lower left) for a tour and there’s gray hair down there. Well, either you can do nearly vertical ladders and cliff edges or you can’t regardless of age. Glad they can! Hope you can. I can’t.
Square Tower is one of the best preserved cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde. It is a four-story, 27-foot tall tower still standing after 800 years! Of course originally it was part of a multi-story complex built with open rooftop areas surrounded by rooms and two- and three-story structures that have since collapsed.
What’s truly amazing is 90% of the village is original including the plaster walls, paint, and roof beams. Do you see the white at the top of the inside walls on the building at right? That is the original paint. Apparently painting your home walls with white above, red below was popular at the time.
What can’t be seen from here is the original intact kiva roof and Crow’s Nest, a series of small structures built high above the village with impressive views of the surrounding landscape. These are thought to be look outs for possible attacks, special ceremonial spaces, and maybe places to enjoy beautiful sunset views.
Around 1300 CE most people were gone from Mesa Verde. After 800 years of extraordinary community accomplishments, it only took two generations for Mesa Verde to be totally deserted. Why? As always complex interactions made life there impossible. The land could no longer support the growing population. Over-farming and deforestation eventually eroded the soil and agricultural productivity declined leading to food shortages by the late 12th century. Then the final straw. The Great Southwestern Drought of 1276-1299. A 23-year drought creating crop failures along with violence related to food scarcity leading to warfare. Many of these Ancestral Pueblo People moved to areas of today’s Puebloans in New Mexico and Arizona.
Mesa Verde, and the people who created it, offers incredible historic stories worth exploring. If you can, take a few cliff dwelling tours and get the inside stories about the place and its people from the inspiring Park Rangers. Knowing I can’t do the tours, I spent time talking with Rangers in the Visitor Center then stopping at every pull-out and enjoying every amazing overlook making the trip a wonderful experience–even being a wimp 😉 .
Until next time my friend . . .
