Third time is a charm. Today we WILL get to the base of the falls on Holland Creek which connects Upper Holland Lake and the much larger 416-acre Holland Lake. The hike to the upper lake is about 12 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 3,600 feet. The hike to Holland Lake Falls is 3.3 miles round trip with a 750 foot elevation gain. Guess which one we are doing–remembering I’m wimpy.
I’ve walked this trail before but could never find access to the base of the falls. Today I will not be denied, and although it is mostly cloudy, rain is not forecast, the sun peaks through here and there, the smoke from fires north and west has subsided, and it is only in the upper 60s. What a day for a pleasant late morning hike. Sitting at the base of Carmine Peak in the Swan Mountains, welcome to Holland Lake!
The first half of the trail takes us through a forest of primarily Ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, and Western larch referred to locally as Tamaracks. September is upon us and the ground cover is beginning to dress for autumn. Not too colorful yet, but a few cold nights will have the colors explode.
Most flowers are gone but we can always find long-leaved asters (Symphyotrichum ascendens) which bloom until October. Actually the real flowers are the yellow center. This flower head can consist of 25 to 65 individual disk flowers surrounded by purple petals called ray flowers.
This grouping has flowers in every stage of growth. At left we have a bud just beginning to open with lovely mature flowers above. As each flower winds down its seasonal life, the ray petals roll into tight balls which then drop to the ground. Treats for small ground mammals perhaps? The disk flowers drop their seeds and turn purple and we’ll look for them again next summer.
Walk around the Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa) which was drilled for bugs by the Northern Flicker, a member of the woodpecker family. In the west we have the red-shafted variety. When they fly their wings show red, unlike those in the East that are yellow.
The Ponderosa pine, aside from being Montana’s state tree, stands out in the forest with its red/orange plated bark. These trees can reach over 200 feet with a base circumference of 27 feet. Living between 300 and 600 years, we are mere infants passing by this day. With a tap root of up to 30 feet deep and a root system that can spread 100 feet from the trunk, they are very drought tolerant. The amazing thing is even after they are dead, as is this tree, they can stand for hundreds of years.
Here’s a peek at our destination. See Holland Lake Falls?
Having moved from the East, one tree I truly miss is the maple. Here is a great specimen of the Rocky Mountain maple. In the west maples are shrubs. They can reach 20 feet high, although I’ve never seen one taller than about 10 feet. Interestingly, the vivid red bark is very hard and has been used to make pipes. The leaves have the familiar maple shape.
Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus) is a shrub that can reach about six feet tall although two to three feet is more common. It is not unique to the western forests, but on last count was common in 36 states and even cultivated for home gardens. It is highly tolerant, thriving in very different environments from forests to beaches to rocky ledges to deep thickets. Although it has sweet pink flowers in mid summer, it is best known and named for the waxy white berries obvious come autumn.
Although poisonous to us, many birds and mammals eat the fruit. It is an important food source for quail, grouse, pheasants, and bears. In addition to the fruit, the stems and leaves are eaten by many mammals including moose, rabbits, deer, and elk. These shrubs can live to 40 years. It always amazes me how long plants live, how they feed so many of God’s creatures, and have healing properties we have yet to fully discover, yet we just see weeds. One day we may get over ourselves–hopefully.
Starting the steep second half of the hike, we cross a small wooden bridge over an unnamed mountain creek. This is the only part we can see, but it makes a loud yet relaxing burbling on its journey down the mountain to the lake. See the asters at water’s edge?
Getting closer to the falls, the talus (fallen rocks) begin to take over the hillsides. You may have heard the term “scree” which are areas made up of small rocks. Talus is simply bigger rocks, some the size of boulders. Never seems worth an argument, but some people squabble over the terms. “Fallen rock” works for me. This is a popular trail therefore well trodden. It is officially the Holland Falls National Recreation Trail #416 so it is well maintained. Still, be careful not to trip on the rocks embedded in the trail.
Ah, the overlook, or is it? Lots of rocks to walk on, around, and over so be careful. Look! Between those two large rocks to the right, a small critter.
And a strange sight, his buddy in a bush on the side of the trail. I didn’t know the Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel climbed bushes. They look like chipmunks, but never have stripes running up their neck and across their eyes as found on all chipmunks. These critters must get snacks often because when I sat on a rock one came up and sniffed my shoe. No snacks today buddy
Walking to the edge of the rock ledge, this is the best view available from what is mistakenly assumed to be an overlook, but I’ve seen better pictures taken by others. Let’s explore more of this area. There has to be a way to get closer to the falls.
Looking up the northern side of the trail–no way up here.
Wait, before we reached this area there was a possible way up. Let’s scramble up a bit see where it takes us.
Oh no, that’s a steep drop to the creek. The trail right goes into the forest so that’s no help. Let’s go back to the “overlook” and see if we can find a safer way to negotiate the rocks.
Hooray! Walked down a few boulders, thank goodness they are flat rather than rounded, and was able to slide off a big, flat rock getting me closer to the creek. The next challenge is a three-foot wall with a need to first scramble up then negotiate lots of downed trees and boulders. Well, looks like we won’t get to the base again. Wait–yes! Walk over two large downed trees that aren’t too high off the ground and we are much closer. A nice view of this 50-foot falls.
Let’s cross this last log and step up onto the rocks along the creek. Be careful of slick, wet spots. Ah . . .
The creek drops dramatically from here, flowing through dense forest before reaching the lake. This must be an amazing falls come spring runoff. I doubt we could ever stand this close that time of year.
Let’s grab a snack and head back. This is the iconic Holland Lake picture, but today it is not that great. Too overcast, the unavoidable smoke haze over the Mission Mountains straight ahead, and all that climbing and rock/tree hopping, I can’t hold the camera still enough. Well, bear with me and you get the idea.
Now we have two reasons to return to this hike. A clear, blue-sky day to photography the lake and, with additional research, finding a safe way to reach the base of the falls. Sounds like another visit next season.
Ah, back on the flatter part of the trail winding our way along lake’s edge.
Oh my, check out the lily pads. There are still lots of lilies in bloom and those amazing little “gardens” growing on dead stumps. Nothing goes to waste in nature.
Look at this moss, interesting spirals. As the temps cool, the way moss appears and functions changes. I have no idea what specific moss this is. Sorry.
We are close to walking the last half mile through the forest to the parking area so let’s take one more look. Gorgeous! See the falls, almost dead center where the two mountains make a “V”? I also can’t get over the color of the water. Absolutely stunning. What a sweet walk!
Until next time my friend, explore the autumn colors near you!
