Capitol Reef National Park–DUE Process

What a fantastic trip to Capitol Reef National Park, established in 1937 as a National Monument, becoming a National Park in 1971. We’ll hike together and take a couple road trips, but let’s start with an overview–and what views! So what’s DUE process? Come on along and find out . . .

First, why is it called Capitol Reef when there is no capitol or reef here? There are two geologic features responsible for the name. The white Navajo Sandstone domes seen by early explorers and settlers reminded them of the rotunda or cupola found on many capitol buildings. This is Capitol Dome.

Then the challenging ridge of rocky cliffs creating a barrier to continuing their journey west. They thought this tough terrain much like the nautical barriers created by ocean reefs. It is also interesting that many pioneers attempted the journey west in prairie schooners. Maritime analogies in this desert environment.

The original road through the reef was cleared by early settlers at Capitol Gorge. At the end of the Park Service established Scenic Drive, 7.5 mile paved road into the Park, you can drive a 2.5 mile dirt road into Capitol Gorge then hike the original canyon road.

Capitol Reef became a national park to preserve the 90-mile long Waterpocket Fold, a unique fold or wrinkle in the earth’s crust. Here is where DUE process comes in. The entire creation and continuing evolution of Capitol Reef is all about DUE process.
D = deposition–sedimentary strata deposited for over 200 millions years
U = uplift–about 75-35 million years ago tectonic plate forces raised this entire area over 7,000 feet higher on the west side of the fold
E = erosion–water is the dominant means of erosion which will continue long beyond our time on earth

With that in mind, the above picture is of the east side of the fold. Here are a few more. Do you notice areas that might be canyons? We will be doing a slot-canyon hike very soon 😮 .

When the earth folded, this east side was lower with more rounded features than the rugged, higher west side. Let’s take a look at the dramatic west side of the fold along the Scenic Drive south of the Visitor Center.

You may have a few questions though. The Park’s web site explains it better than I can, but what is a waterpocket and why here in the desert? Why are some of the rock layers such different colors from others? Why is red the dominant color, although different shades, yet we see rocks of totally different shades from gray to teal greens and blues? Well, here you go . . .

Waterpockets form in sandstone as rainwater and summer monsoon rain erodes away the “cement” holding the sandstone together. As the sandstone slowly becomes sand, storms are the energy while sand and gravel grind the holes. This slow erosion create what are called potholes and tanks.

Tanks, usually found in drainages of Navajo Sandstone formations, are often large, deep, and hold water year round. They support aquatic invertebrates including insects and crustaceans and support riparian vegetation. Potholes are smaller and often dry up completely. However, they also support some aquatic invertebrates and vegetation.

The rock colors are all about iron oxidation, what happens to iron when the level of oxygen changes. The red rock had an oxygen-rich environment as they formed. The more oxygen the redder the rock. The other colors happened when rocks were formed in stagnant swamps and lakes on a low-level coastal plain. Lack of oxygen reduced the iron compounds giving them colors other than red.

Over millions of years this landscape evolved within ever-changing conditions ranging from shallow ocean to river floodplain to desert dunes. There is so much to see and every turn offers another “WOW”. Geology can feel over our heads with terms we don’t know or necessarily understand. Also talking in millions of years which we can barely fathom, but here it is. Rock building and eroding over millions of years and still happening. All right in front of our eyes. WOW!