Exploring Cottonwood Canyon Road in April 2017, I could find no way down into the Cottonwood Narrows at this northern end. No signs, no trails, just wandering around finding four to six foot drops into the canyon. I can jump down, BUT how do I get back up? Good to think ahead. Hoping the access they created for us is easy. Come on along into the Narrows!
After Cottonwood Canyon Road becomes a dirt road, canyon parking is about 13 miles. The parking area is just an oversized pullout, but there is still room for my SUV. See the trail markers along the left? Let’s go! Just can’t get over the colors along this Candyland section of the road!
It’s a bit steep, just take your time.
That was pretty easy and here we are. One short jump down and ready to walk the canyon.
Straight ahead is the trail I read about. It parallels the road north and south with a trailhead entrance at each end. The canyon along this trail is apparently quite wide and open.
This is unexpected. I never read about and didn’t expect a trail that heads west. It looks more like a slot canyon, or it is a short walk to a dead end. Hmmmm . . . decisions, decisions.
Let’s go right, it just looks like more fun!
This trail heading west makes a sharp right and north we go. This is interesting. The right wall is sandstone like we see all over Utah. The left side is very different rock. Or is it? On the light-colored righthand wall we see desert varnish. We’ve seen varnish on sandstone walls many places in Utah and have talked of it before. It is a thin coating of iron and manganese oxides and clay or silica that takes thousands of years to become as dark as some we’ve seen. Varnish’s estimated growth rate is one MICROMETER per MILLENNIA! That means it could take 50,000 years to be the thickness of a piece of paper (thanks to Wildland Trekking for sharing). Scientists continue searching for answers about desert varnish formation and more. The National Park Service tells us:
Desert varnish forms on most bare rock surfaces that are resistant to weathering, rock decay, and erosion. The coatings are thin and are compositionally distinct from the underlying bedrock. They contain material derived from water that flows over rock surfaces, windblown dust, and microorganisms including fungi living on rock surfaces.
Now I’m wondering. Is it truly black rock at the left or is it thousands upon thousands of years buildup of desert varnish? Perhaps a little of each?
I’m voting for mostly varnish making the sandstone black. Here we have a very different sandstone formation. Sheets and blocks eroding and dropping to the canyon floor with dark reds in unique shapes that may be a totally different kind of rock.
Oh the colors!
Here are the results of different erosion patterns. See the white lines in the rock? On the left and right and ahead vertically. There are two possibilities–veins of quartz or of gypsum. Perhaps some of each? Can you tell the difference? Let me know if you can since I have no idea. Keep a look out for more white veins.
Now, can we get around this rock? Challenges like this take some exploring. Heading back is often the safest choice, but let’s see.
We found the way! The other side has rock “steps” for a safe downhill walk.
Check out the veins.
One nice thing about this canyon? There is no stream of water to slosh through. Checking the day’s weather forecast is vital for safe exploration of any canyon. Rain from miles away can create a flash flood that puts hikers at risk. Avoid the danger by checking the weather!
The trail zigs and zags and check out the veins on the rock we will walk over.
Next challenge. It’s hard to tell, but will the smooth area right of the fallen rock get us up and around? Now close to that possible “step” up we see it is actually above my waist. Thought I could step on the lower ridge, maybe make it up? Nope. The ridge is not even an inch deep and the smooth area is still too high. This is a no go, but we tried.
Doesn’t apply for our problem here, but have you heard of canyoneering? Exciting and daring–if your are young or have been doing it for years. Big no for me–don’t do well with heights and super tight places. Safety helmets, ropes, and harnesses do little for panic attacks!
It is so bright ahead. Maybe this means the cayon itself ends here. It will remain a mystery for us.
Another amazing thing? I cannot tell where all these rocks fell from. We have seen lots of big fallen cliff pieces on our journeys, but the area above, no matter how huge the fallen rock, never looks like something is missing. Fascinating.
Back we go. We’ve walked about six-tenths of a mile. Here we definitely see the varnish on the sandstone. The veins on the right and tafoni (a line of eroded holes) at left.
This really is a beautiful walk. Check out the veins at left. Look more like cobwebs. We have more tafoni too.
More amazing veins. Is it quartz or is it gypsum? No idea, let’s go.
Life always finds a way!
This wider section has lovely bushes surviving on rock by sending shoots down crevices in search of water. The dirt they grown in is blown in as well as eroded/crushed rock like we are walking on. Plants obvious find enough water and nutrients from the sand since they are thriving.
We are almost at the end of the canyon. Up ahead we make that sharp turn heading east.
Just about to where we started.
We again look down the trail that parallels the road. The trail leading to the parking lot is just behind us. Let’s head back to the SUV and on to our next adventure.
Something about slot canyons–a quiet, peaceful walk through millions of years of geologic history. Glad you came along!
Until next time my friend. Be sure to look for those special quiet natural places near you!
