The high, rugged Sangre de Christo Mountains are the backdrop for Great Sand Dune National Park, 30-square miles of sand dunes reaching over 740 feet. They are the tallest dunes in North American with an amazingly diverse habitat. It is an ongoing story of wind, water, and sand. There are no designated trails on the dunes, you can walk anywhere you want–I dare you! Come along to visit the grand peaks of sand and granite!
There is one “small” issue about visiting this Park. Inside the Park is Piñon (pronounced Pinyon) Flats Campground. You need reservations to secure one of the 91 sites. Aside from a few private campgrounds, there is one small private lodge with cabins about 2 miles from the Park’s entrance. All other lodging is 25-35 miles south and that’s a lot of driving each day. Luckily, I was able to secure one half of a one-story duplex five miles from the dunes, and oh my, the picture-window view!
I know, you may be thinking, what is the big deal about piles of sand? Hate to admit, I thought the same thing. One reason I’m here, to see why visiting huge piles of sand IS a big deal. I have to say after visiting, there are a number of things that keep pulling you: the quiet, a sense of peace, the variety of habitat with sand and grasslands as well as gorgeous mountains, greens unexpectedly growing in sand, and dune shapes that offer gorgeous shadows in early and late light. It is awe inspiring. Take a look at the 43-second video of this unique National Park.
The only road to the Park is CO-150, about 20 miles north from US-160, the major route into the San Luis Valley from the northeast, the direction I came. The San Luis Valley is where we saw Sandhill Cranes last March. CO-150 is the main park road and ends in the campground two miles from the Park entrance. Well, you can’t get lost!
After stopping by the Visitor Center, we arrive at the dunes parking area. From here it is a 1/4-mile walk in sand to begin going up the dunes. Will we be walking up the dunes? Ahhhhhh . . . no. Walking in sand is not my idea of a good time and those dunes are high and steep. You can rent sandsleds/skis, walk up as far as you like, slide down–can ski and snowboard the dunes in winter–can walk anywhere you want 24/7. Decisions, decisions. Well, a Black-tail deer came for a visit, so let’s follow her into the grasslands then into the sand.
Black-tail deer are very common in the west. They can certainly run, but they also “bounce” on all four legs to go faster. Walking and running on sand must be hard for them too since they mostly “bounce” away from us. I think the word “boing” was invented by these deer. 😉 As they bounce you can almost hear it: boing, boing, boing.
There is a trail here (bottom right), but you can barely see it with the plants and grasses.
In autumn it is better to stay on trails rather than wade through vegetation, but here we have little choice. There are always little sticky seed casings hoping to catch a ride to new growing grounds. We can spread seeds just as easily on our clothes and shoes as an animal or bird can spread seeds. It is one reason there are more and more non-native plants popping up in National Parks and other tourist areas. We have visitors from all over the world, and although unconscious of the fact, they are very likely carrying seeds from home on shoes, coats, clothes, luggage, etc.
Ouch!
We brush against Indian Rice Grass as we go. Tiny seeds on plants that look like misty puffs. The fading yellow flowers of Rabbitbrush, common in western grasslands.
Indian rice grass is drought-tolerant and thrives in sandy habitats. We see them growing in the red-rock sand of Garden of the Gods and other parks in the Springs. This is one of the few plants that established itself on the dunes. Its fine stems and leaves minimize the heating effect of the sun, and in summer the dunes can reach 150 degrees F! Because the Park’s elevation is about 8,200 feet, temperatures away from the sand are pleasant, 75 to 80 degrees. Mid-day in summer is a great time to take a walk in the forest and up into the mountains!
Wow, look at the people on the dunes. Not many at 8am or this time of year, but they are certainly tiny on those massive hills of sand! Can you see them? Top right, bottom left and along left edge, a few in the middle.
Walking in sand has one positive. I can turn around and “see myself” taking the walk. You don’t sink as deep as you do in beach sand and there are areas where you barely sink at all. Nevertheless, it is still a bit of a workout.
So, why are there massive sand dunes in the middle of the country? Easy, a large portion of the San Luis Valley, the largest alpine valley on earth at 122 miles long and 74 miles wide, was once a lake. Experts think the lake was 3 million years old when it overflowed and disappeared about 440,000 years ago. Once the lake was gone, the winds, typically from the southwest, blew sand into the curve of the very high, rugged Sangre de Christo mountain range, and here we are! Great Sand Dunes keeps changing and the story of how they formed keeps evolving with new geologic and hydrologic discoveries all the time. The Park Service has more detailed information if you are interested, but let’s talk of hydrology for a minute.
See the growth up the dunes at left? Not only that but the “floor” in front of us look like waves. Is it wind, water, both?
You may know that this National Park is known for Medano Creek flowing along the base of the dunes for a few months each spring. People come to splash and float in the creek and it does look like fun. The creek usually disappears by mid to late June. Or does it? Ranger Patrick Myers tells us, “The natural hydrological system of Great Sand Dunes is complex, paralleling the circulatory system in our own bodies.” It is not only surface water that’s important, but a huge aquifer beneath the dunes and the wetlands across the valley. They say if you dig down a few inches anywhere in the dunes, you will find wet sand. Wish I had read that before I came. Well, looks like another visit. To learn more of the water that is Great Sand Dunes’ lifeblood, see here.
This mountain range is gorgeous. The highest peak here is hidden in clouds. Are storms coming?
The Sangre de Christo Mountain Range is about 200 miles long going from Salida, Colorado to Sante Fe, New Mexico. There are 10 peaks over 14,000 ft and 160 over 13,000 ft! All but three of the highest peaks are in Colorado. Right here we are in the central portion of the range.
Let’s take a walk at the far end of the dunes toward the curve of the mountains. Yup, trudging through sand, but a good leg workout!
Whoa! See the markings in the sand? The “footprint” of a Bullsnake, the largest reptile in the park reaching lengths of five feet. In other parts of the west they can reach seven to eight feet in length. They are often confused with rattlesnakes, but are non-poisonous and important for rodent control in this ecosystem. They are most common in grasslands but can be found in forests at lower elevations. Feels a bit creepy–where could it be, hiding just out of sight?
We’ll walk to the right, up a small dune toward the mountains.
It is fascinating that grasses grow in the sand, but it is all about hydrology. Our backdrop here is Mount Herard, standing tall at 13,325 feet.
Looking southwest, can you see the path of Medano Creek? The edges have greens. Medano Creek flows down the mountains from the east (our right). Apparently there is another important creek, Sand Creek (apt name 😉 ) that flows out of the mountains from the north and runs along the western edge of the dunes. It continues further south into the valley than Medano Creek filling a few lakes along the way.
Ah, some fall color at higher elevations.
What a day and time to head back to the lodging. Another picture-window view as the sun sets. Yup, there is a storm coming our way. Ah, the moods of the mountains, dunes, and clouds.
So yes, it did rain overnight. Obviously it rained just hard enough and long enough to make the dust all over my SUV turn to spots. What a mess! Once this happens wind no longer helps, it’s the car wash or spots forever. Well, generally speaking, the rain does help settle the dust that’s inevitable with so much sand.
One more early morning view of Mount Herard above the dunes before we leave.
Until next time my friend, slow down and notice the special places near you!
