Welcome to the badlands in western North Dakota, better known as Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Exploring the South Unit of this three-part National Park, we will see landscapes that take your breath away and more. Let’s go!
Theodore Roosevelt National Park has three separate Units that are at least an hour away from each other. The South Unit, over 46,000 acres, is where we’ll be exploring today. The North Unit, over 24,000 acres, is an hour north and also in another time zone. Elkhorn Ranch (218 acres) is a 90-minute trip along gravel/dirt roads. A rugged trip to young Teddy Roosevelt’s place of peace and rest that he needed at that time in his life. The Little Missouri River flows through all three Units of the Park on its way to the Missouri River in central North Dakota. The Little Missouri River is the lifeblood in this water-scarce landscape.
Our trip today in the South Unit will be along the 6-mile road to begin the 36 mile Scenic Loop Drive. If you love maps as much as I do, take a look at this South Unit map showing the overlooks and trails. Interested in that trail called Maah Daah Hey? Read about the 114-mile non-motorized, single-track trail with 14 trailheads. What an adventure that would be! The red loop road above shows our drive beginning in Medora, a very small town (186 folks as of 2026) and home to the Park’s Visitor Center. After checking in with the Rangers on duty, off we go!
As we head up into the hills, we drive along steep eroding landscapes.
As we discovered from our Painted Canyon visit, the rock colors show the river, floodplain, and swamp deposits made millions of years ago. Through wind and water erosion, we see layers of sandstone, siltstone, mudstone, black lines of lignite coal, and volcanic ash from distant eruptions. The red and yellows are created by iron oxides. The bluish gray layers are weathered volcanic ash.
Organic material compressed over millions of years make the darker-colored rock. This is a landscape that continues to evolve each and every day, year after year, century after century! Looking closely you can see the narrower black lines of coal.
Scoria Point Overlook
We are up at the first of three designated overlooks looking back at our journey so far.
So what is scoria? This red-colored rock is called scoria locally, but true scoria is created by volcanic activity. Volcanos have never been a force in this region. The “real” name, no kidding, is clinker. Both scoria and clinker are formed by intense heat, but the heat sources are different.
Here is an exposed coal vein, an unusually wide black line of coal. Lightning, prairie fire, or even spontaneous combustion can set such exposed veins ablaze. When fire follows a coal vein underground, it can continue to spread, burn, and smolder for decades. Along the highway we saw signs “Coal fire ahead”. A hole in the ground with volumes of smoke, but don’t call for help?! No because they are being watched, are well underground, and currently offer no threat. That’s a new experience.
The rocks above the fire become super-heated and hard. Exposed to air, over time the iron in the rock oxidizes giving clinker its rusty color. Clinker is harder and erodes slower than most rocks around it creating a caprock that protects the softer rock below. We’ll see clinker areas and caprocks throughout the Park. Keep looking for them.
Badlands Overlook
The challenge has always been how do we get from here to the far side. Attempting to traverse cliffs, canyons, coulees, sinkholes, and creeks while not getting lost is why the Lakota Indians called it bad land.
More clinker . . .
Ahh . . . my favorite animal–Pronghorn Antelope. We saw them often in Yellowstone, but they are all over the North American prairies and grasslands–and no place else in the world.
Pronghorn aren’t afraid of much of anything because they can outrun everything except a cheetah’s 75 mph sprint. Since cheetahs don’t live where Pronghorn roam feee, the Pronghorn’s 55 mph sprint can get them away from any predator in their range. Pronghorns are long-distance runners able to maintain 45mph for a longer distance than any other mammal on earth! With only two legs, I’m no threat, just of interest. This is one big male!
Buck Hill
There are a few gravel/dirt side roads to hiking trails, so let’s take a look. WOW, wild horses! Brochures tell of wild horses in the Park, often seen far away. Well, this was a surprise.
So close I just rolled down my SUV window and –SNAP! Could this be a momma-in-waiting? Might be . . .
Another one just started walking toward my open window? Have people fed him/her? Window up–let’s go.
Here we are at the Buck Hill trailhead. A short trail UP, but let’s check out the view from the top,
Buck Hill is the second highest point in the Park at 2,860 feet. The highest point, Peck Hill, is five feet higher, a few miles southeast, but not that easy to access. This view goes on from east to west as far as we can see–but further than my camera can show you!
We are standing at the highest point on Buck Hill with some rocks giving protection to daintier species. We were warned it was coming. The wind is now 30+ mph with gusts to 60 mph! A beautiful Anise Swallowtail with wing span of about 3 inches was hiding from the wind. I tried not to frighten it, but it took off and was literally blown away. Hope it found a safe place from the wind!
Boicourt Overlook
The last major overlook has its views west/southwest. The informational kiosk gives us milage across the badlands to major features in the distance. Let’s zoom in and look at each one.
Looking at the formations at the very back of the picture from left (east) to right (west). First is Square Butte 15.4 miles away then Sentinel Butte 21.3 miles away.
Further west is Camels Hump Butte 18.6 miles away.
Last we have West and East Twin Buttes, 17.9 and 16.4 miles away respectively. They do look a bit like twins don’t they? They are about two miles apart.
From here we’ll start our journey back down into grassland.
Did I mention there are MANY prairie dog towns in the grasslands all over the Park? You can never miss a prairie dog town. Their burrows stand out against the ground’s vegetation. Those piles of dirt surround an opening up to three feet wide.
These are black-tailed prairie dogs (Cynomys ludovicianus), named for their black-tipped tail. They are amazing animal architects constructing burrows including dens that expertly support their way of life.
If you live in the midwest you’ve no doubt seen them. If not here’s more about these fascinating little critters.
Oh my, what a surprise. Wait, what are they doing?
They are searching for lunch–where? In the bison dung! Yum-O!! We’ve seen this before in Yellowstone when Western Bluebirds were able to come back in wintery early March because they could feed on the bugs in the bison dung. Well, it is a guaranteed meal but no thanks. Want to give it a try?
And speaking of bison, there have been a few bison along the way but all males. How about this fella . . . I just walked right up to him . . . OK, I lied. NEVER get close to a bison. They look so docile but their 2,000 pounds with incredible muscle mass can get to 35 mph in about 10 seconds. I’ve seen it happen!
I was in the SUV when I saw him and zoomed in. He was only mildly interested since I did not get out the car–but he kept watching. So how can you tell if you are getting on a bison’s nerves? His 7 to 12 inch tail will stand straight in the air. If he starts raising the tail, get to cover! That’s a pretty lame warning for an animal that big, but now you know!
The Little Missouri River, flowing along the west part of the Park, from a high bluff trail overlook.
One last stop in the picnic area near the only campground in the Park. Did not expect this! Then again there were no other people around, the campground was mostly empty, and I was doing 10 mph. Is he taking a quiet walk in this exhausting, maybe frustrating, mating season? He is one huge turkey in his lovely breeding plumage.
What a great drive. Let me know your favorite part?
Until next time my friend . . . enjoy the beautiful things in your backyard and surrounds. Nature is amazing everywhere!
