US-550 is part of Colorado’s San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway. We’ll be traveling from Durango to Ouray, Colorado, about 70 miles of the 305-mile US-550. The 25-mile stretch between Silverton and Ouray is called the Million Dollar Highway. No one knows exactly why it got that name, although the whole area was home to very productive silver, gold, lead, copper, and zinc mines. The Million Dollar Highway served those mines, but is best known today for it sharp curves, steep grades, and narrow road edges. Sound scary? It is, but as we head north from Durango, we slowly climb into the beautiful mountains along US-550.
Our drive along US-550 takes us through the western side of Colorado’s San Juan Mountains. The San Juans are rugged with 9 peaks above 14,000 feet, 10 above 13,000 feet, and dozens more over 12,000 feet. How’s the hiking? I think one word tells all: UP! No worries, we are here for the scenery, not hiking.
Getting a closer look at the two mountains above, the closest is Engineer Mountain, standing at 12,968 feet. The sign warns of what’s to come, but forgot to mention–no guardrails.
The other mountain is Grizzly Peak, standing at 13,738 feet. As with many peaks in the San Juans, access to the trailhead is via 4WD or hefty high-clearance vehicles. The San Juans are a climber’s paradise, but I’ll take the scenic view from here, thanks.
We travel over three Passes on the way to Ouray. Coal Bank Pass (10,640 feet), Molas Pass (10,970 feet), and Red Mountain Pass (11,018 feet). A mountain pass is simply a route through a mountain range that can be driven. It is always important to research the mountain passes you plan to travel to see the recommended type of vehicle for navigating safely. Traveling a dirt road may be no problem, but a dirt road that turns into a rock-filled, hole-filled “adventure” requires not only an ATV of some sort, but may require special driving skills. There is no problem on US-550, so let’s enjoy the smooth ride!
Here we are at Coal Bank Pass. We haven’t seen many flowers, but here’s a Richardson’s Geranium (Geranium richardsonii). Flowers are a bit shabby, but they are struggling for sun at this very shady rest area.
It is a nice rest area, but the views are best on the way down. This is Twilight Peak (13,161feet), the highest peak in the West Needle Mountains. It gets complicated with all the subranges in the Rocky Mountains. The San Juans are a subrange of the Rockies. The Needles are a subrange of the San Juans, and the West Needles a subrange of the Needles. EE-gads it get tough keeping all this straight. One thing I know for sure? They are always gorgeous!
This time of year (mid June) there are still many creeks carrying the snowmelt and rain showers down to creeks and rivers in the gorges below.
A wider view of this section of the West Needle Mountains.
Let’s stop at small pullout called Lime Creek Overlook. It is a steep decline from here. You can see a portion of our road at bottom left. Across the creek bed US-550 continues uphill. There is obviously a 90 degree turn coming up. Notice the little black dot on the road over there? Black motorcycle with car behind it. Puts the surrounds in perspective, don’t ya think?
Just saw a sign for Andrews Lake, and why not? Sharp right and off to the lake we go. There’s a reason the road’s speed limit is 10-15 mph. It is a two-way well maintained dirt road, BUT it is only a bit wider than a single lane with lots of pull-outs. Yup, had to back up into a pull-out but only once. Since I was closest to a pull-out, the decision was easy–and appreciated.
Andrews Lake, 15 acres of crystal clear water reflecting the beautiful blue sky. The tallest peak cross the way is Snowdon Peak (13,077 feet), also part of the West Needles Mountains.
At the south end of the lake is a small boat launch, no motors allowed. There are also a number of trailheads for hiking into the forest to the mountains.
On our right is a huge shrub, about four feet high and spreading out in all directions. It is a Mountain or Prickly Currant (Ribes montigenum) which has lots of long and sharp thorns.
The flowers are interesting. Mountain Currant flowers mature and produce large and tasty berries. Should be a good crop this year.
Heading back to the parking area, the views west are beautiful! The bridge lets us cross Lime Creek.
Back on US-550, we are only a short distance from Molas Pass, a wide-open place that is stunning. Walking up to the overlook, north we see Turks Head straight ahead (12,734 feet) and Grand Turk to the right (13,148 feet). Not every peak is named often because it is part of one that is named. It can be challenging trying to ID mountains.
Looking northeast, we see the Grenadier Range, part of the Weminuche Wilderness, the largest wilderness area in Colorado (488,700 acres).
The pond below is exactly that, a shallow pond covered with water lilies. Would love to see them bloom! The lake further away is Molas Lake and Campground. The lake is a trout-stocked 25 acre lake. The night skies, with no light pollution, must be spectacular!
Looking south we see Snowdon Mountain again, the shiny mountain at right. You don’t see many mountains that shine like this. What’s the geology involved? The entire mountain is a composition of quartzite rock including mica, all of which reflects a significant amount of sunlight.
Heading downhill let’s stop at that wide pull-out overlooking Silverton. See the river at the bottom? That’s the Animas River, its headwaters high in the mountains east of Silverton. The river flows 126 miles to Farmington, NM, where it joins the San Juan River, a major tributary of the Colorado River. Above the river are the railroad tracks of the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad.
The mountain above the town? Storm Peak rising 13,402 feet. Silverton sits at 9,318 feet, a mountain town for sure. Heading beyond Silverton we’ll see historic mining areas, but many of the communities around the mines have disappeared. The mines were active from the 1880 into the 20th century. Today remaining mountain towns thrive on tourist dollars and visiting these small towns is always fun!
Leaving Silverton we’re driving the most challenging part of US-550–the Million Dollar Highway. The lanes get narrow with sharp turns and steep drops off. Here we go . . . heading up to Red Mountain Pass. Yes, the mountains are red. It is all about the amount of iron oxide in the rock and sand.
Heading down we see the remains of the Yankee Girl Mine in the ghost town of Guston. There were other mines here, but Yankee Girl had the richest concentration of silver in the United States. Established about 1882, it produced almost $12M dollars in ore, worth nearly $1B in today’s market. It closed in the late 1890’s, one result of the Panic of 1893, the most serious economic depression in history until the 1930’s Great Depression.
Yankee Girl’s mine shaft went straight down, unlike most mines in the area. It is one of very few structures remaining on site.
Red Mountain #2 above the mine shaft (very bottom mid picture). Wow, now that gives perspective!
Red Mountain #3 further down the road.
The road and its edges have been getting narrower, but we have the last 12 miles to tackle–and the most dangerous. Hold on!
Whoa!! I could not stop anyplace until Bear Creek Falls, 9 miles down the road. Thanks to Coloradopedia for the drone picture! I purposely drove south to north to hug the mountain wall. Yup all-time wimp and don’t care. Speed limit? Between 25 and 10mph. No problem!
Do people die on this road–yes š . This road is open year round. Avalanches are very common all winter/spring. On occasion snow-plow drivers are killed by avalanches but new technology regarding avalanche awareness has resulted in lives saved. The Million Dollar Highway sees about 40 accidents a year, averaging 7 deaths. Most attributed to making bad choices (passing at higher speeds) and paying too much attention to the scenery rather than the road.
This September two people died in a Honda Civic as they were backing up for some reason even witnesses could not understand. Getting a great picture? They landed upside down 320 feet down. Their 11-year old daughter survived.
This picture was in most newspapers all over Colorado, courtesy of Colorado State Patrol. This tends to be a picture you cannot unsee and the police know it–PAY ATTENTION–DRIVE SPEED LIMIT OR LESS–DRIVE SAFE.
Back to our journey, but prayers for all families of those lost.
My heart was beating a bit faster and happy to pull over at this northern most entrance to the Alpine Loop. Just need to get out of the car–relax–and enjoy Bear Creek.
A few years ago you visited Lake City with me to see waterfalls (last three pics with narrative). We did about 10 miles of the Loop. It was getting a bit gnarly. This is the northern entrance of the Alpine Loop that goes to Lake City. From Lake City the Loop heads south to Silverton. An amazing 63 miles, crossing two 12,000–foot passes requiring high-clearance four-wheel drive vehicles. Once I read this, decided not to go for it–not for now anyway. This is another adventure that takes planning. Maybe you’d love it?!
Bear Creek rushes down the the 12,000 foot surrounding mountains.
Down the road a short distance is the Bear Creek Falls Overlook.
Looking south from the Overlook we see Abrams Mountain, also called Mount Abrams, at 12,800 feet. You can see the road cut in the front of the mountain. You can also see smoke. Yes, we passed the fire engine and crew pulling the hoses up the sheer cliff to fight the fire that was discovered in it early stages. Happily, being in Ouray for 3.5 days, the fire was out when I left. Good work!
We have some sharp and steep drops on the last three miles into Ouray. The good news? We are mostly driving through forests not on the edge of oblivion any longer! OK, a bit exaggerated, but here we are–Ouray. The last mountain town in the San Juan Mountains as we look north. What a journey!
If you ever get to Colorado I strongly encourage you to explore US-550. Just be sure you travel south to north!
Until next time my friend . . .
WOW, what an incredible trip! Hooray for Ouray. Gorgeous. Your writing and images continue to make for an awesome armchair traveling experience!
Thanks so much.