FINALLY! Cedar Breaks National Monument

Here we are, at last! Cedar Breaks National Monument in western Utah. I tried to visit three times prior, each between mid April and late May. The entire area was closed because of snow. So finally planned a dedicated trip to the Monument in early June. Hooray, not much snow left and roads clear. Let’s go!

In order to arrive at the above sign, we must exit I-15 into Cedar City, Utah, another western community overwhelmed with new arrivals. Their population in 2020 was 35,500 folks. Today it is home to 42,200 and still growing.

Population aside, it’s easy to drive across town to UT-14, the Markagunt High Plateau Scenic Byway, our route to Cedar Breaks. Cedar City sits at the base of Markagunt Plateau, part of the massive Colorado Plateau which covers 43% of Utah. All five Utah National Parks (The Mighty 5) are on the Plateau, and Cedar Breaks is on the very western edge.

Here we are, at the city’s trail system on the east side of town and the start of UT-14. The trails walk you around this western edge of the plateau to enjoy the familiar red and white (sandstone and limestone) mountains. You can see portions of the city’s trails at picture’s bottom.

The road follows Coal Creek from Cedar City about half our journey. Coal Creek and many area creeks are perennial, but they are not deep or wide. Even with spring snow runoff they are not that large. I miss the huge, deep creeks of Montana, but water is water. Creeks flowing year round means life for every type of plant and animal. I’m all for that!

About 8 miles into our 18 miles to Cedar Breaks, we stop at a massive pullout. What views! There is no longer red rock, none in sight. This is mainly Clarion limestone but have no other geologic details to share–well, none I understand or can explain to you anyway. Geologists tend to talk another language when explaining rock and land formations–geolog-geez? Let’s just enjoy. Often the very best option!

Turning around we see a steep walk down to Coal Creek, which soon becomes Ashdown Creek, and the trailhead into Ashdown Gorge Wilderness. Ashdown covers 7,043 acres and borders Cedar Breaks National Monument on its entire west side and part of both north and south. Rattlesnake Trailhead on the northern edge of Cedar Breaks at 10,500 feet takes you DOWN into Ashdown Gorge. Problem is, you have to walk thousands of feet back up, but there is another way. Make it a 2-day backpack trip having a second car at this pullout because Rattlesnake Trail ends here. Good news? From Cedar Breaks it is downhill all the way! Check out the hike, with lots of pics, thanks to Girl On A Hike.

The mountain’s black cap is interesting. It is likely coal and yes, coal is still mined in Utah, but most mines have closed. They like to blame Washington and Democrats, but it is more complicated, as it always is. One big problem is younger people do not want to work the mines. Particularly because of the dangers and over the years, with the disappearance of unions, the pay and benefits are not much different than easier, above ground work. Why risk black-lung or other injuries? As one long-time miner said, “It wasn’t if you would be injured on the job, it’s just when and how bad.” OK then, onward!

It is getting darker out. Here’s hoping it won’t rain.

Aspens in their vibrant spring color.

We turned a corner and WOW! It’s a beautiful mini-Cedar Breaks. This area has no official name, but what a gorgeous surprise!

Wow, the clouds have certainly dropped, Then again we are well over 10,000 feet. The entrance to Cedar Breaks is only a few miles away.

Here we are, left onto UT-148 and welcome to Cedar Breaks National Monument. Standing by the Breaks sign looking west, the clouds have risen, but the sky is getting more foreboding.

We made it, the Visitor Center. There are rain drops here and there, but let’s go! The Visitor Center is closed due to severe staff cuts via our fearless leader, but the people who are working have set up tables and are giving talks for anyone who is interested. You can’t keep a good park ranger down!

It’s a short walk to Point Supreme so let’s go. Wow!

Ashdown Gorge Wilderness encompasses most all those green hills in the background. In 2006, legislation was proposed to combine Ashdown Gorge Wilderness, a number of private holdings, and Cedar Breaks National Monument to form Cedar Breaks National Park. It is not currently being pursued and in the current environment is unlikely to be proposed again any time soon. Uh-oh, felt raindrops.

We have a visitor. Been on the posts just ahead since arriving and continues to stay close by. Mountain Bluebird (Sialia currucoides). Bluebirds are in the thrush (Turdidae) family along with their “cousin”, the American Robin. I’ve found Bluebirds aren’t particularly scared of us, but do keep an eye on us.

We have so much more to see at Cedar Breaks, but it is starting to rain. Time to check into the hotel in Brian’s Head, 10 miles down the road. We have a full day tomorrow for exploring and I know you’ll love seeing ALL of Cedar Breaks. Stunning!

Until then my friend . . .

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